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The Sushi Economy: Globalization and the Making of a Modern Delicacy
Sasha Issenberg

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84jettagli, January 8, 2008

As a sushi-lover, I can't help picking up any book about this food. This work by Sasha Issenberg easily surpasses other recent books. (The last I read was The Zen of Fish by Trevor Corson, and it is painfully evident how much a better writer Issenberg is than Corson.) Issenberg writes clearly about what has become an obsession for many, in the West as well as the East.

Although the main thread of the book is the international trade in tuna, Issenberg adds personal stories about players at each one of his stops around the globe. Sushi chefs, fish marketers, restaurant owners, and tuna farmers all tell their stories.

Although sometimes the chapters feel like extended essays only related by theme, Issenberg manages to portray the large picture of sushi's influence worldwide.

I would have liked to have seen more material on the "sushi pirates" - fishers and ranchers who play loose with the rules, putting fish stocks at risk. Especially interesting was the story of how a researcher was able to find evidence of deceit by tuna ranchers, using Google Maps! Issenberg's comments on globalization also are more specific to the unique trade around sushi than he seems to realize.

I enjoyed reading this book more than any other on sushi I have seen.

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