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Amazing Surfing Stories

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Amazing Surfing Stories Cover

 

Synopses & Reviews

Publisher Comments:

An eclectic mix of exciting stories every surfer will love 

This eclectic mix has something for everyone, from classic tales of monster waves and epic battles to stories of when life among the breakers goes wrong. There are accounts of death and disaster, as well as bravery and triumph. The bizarre and the extreme rub shoulders with perfect breaks and beautiful beaches.

Be thrilled by legendary surfers like Laird Hamilton and Shane Dorian as well as learning about local heroes who never made the headlines. Epic battles among pros like Rob Machado and Kelly Slater are recounted alongside stories of weird waves and secret surf spots. There are fascinating encounters with surfing’s true characters, men like Dave Rastovich and big wave world record holder Garrett McNamara; appearances by deadly sharks; stories of big wave surfing by night; and an account of how Agatha Christie’s famous disappearance for 11 days in December 1926 might just have been because she was on a surf trip.

Travel from giants like California’s Maverick’s and Maui’s Jaws to tales of Dungeons, dolphins and the derring-do of a man like Colonel ‘Mad Jack’ Churchill. Turn the pages to flick between the left and rights of Britain, Europe, USA, Australia and many strange places in between.

Each compelling tale has been chosen to stoke the fire of armchair surfers and hardcore wave-riders alike, and some are illustrated with colour photographs.

Synopsis:

This eclectic mix has something for everyone, from classic tales of monster waves and epic battles to stories of when life among the breakers goes wrong. There are stories of death and disaster, as well as bravery and triumph.  The bizarre and the extreme rub shoulders with accounts of perfect breaks and beautiful beaches. 

Immerse yourself in the legends of surfing like Laird Hamilton and Shane Dorian as well as learning about local heroes who never made the headlines. Epic battles among pros like Rob Machado and Kelly Slater are recounted alongside stories of weird waves and secret surf spots. There are fascinating encounters with surfing’s true characters, men like Dave Rastovich and big wave world record holder Garrett McNamara; appearances by deadly sharks; stories of big wave surfing by night; and an account of how Agatha Christie’s famous disappearance for 11 days in December 1926 might just have been because she was on a surf trip. 

Travel from giants like California’s Maverick’s and Maui’s Jaws to tales of Dungeons, dolphins and the derring-do of a man like Colonel ‘Mad Jack’ Churchill, a surfing pioneer. Turn the pages to flick between the left and rights of the UK, Europe, USA, Australia and many strange places in between.

Each compelling tale has been chosen to stoke the fire of armchair surfers and hardcore wave-riders alike.

Synopsis:

HIGHER THAN A HIGH FIVE

Machado saw his friend and, skimming the surface of the sea, put out his left hand. At the same time, Slater instinctively did likewise. The pair high fived in the middle of the biggest surf contest in the world… The roar of the crowd could be heard for miles.

OH MY GOD (TAKE 1)

Hamilton recalls hearing him shouting: “Don’t let go!”, and reckons other voices were also screaming that discretion was the better part of valour. But Hamilton was always going to let go.

DR SARAH AND THE MEANING OF SURFING

How blessed were we, to have a flawless left-hander to ourselves at a break that would normally be overrun? And what a break, too: Spot G is backed by granite cliffs, its water is crystal clear, dolphins and seals are regulars in the line-up and the ambience is other-worldly and ancient.

ED’S LEFTEd barely gave thought to the meaning of this particular session. The whoops of the onlookers amped him as much as the waves. But then it dawned on him: had anyone ever ridden a wave here before?

About the Author

ALEX WADE is a former white-collar boxer, media lawyer and freelance journalist who lives and surfs in Cornwall.  As well as running the Surf Nation blog, he regularly contributes to The Times, The Sunday Times, The Independent, The Guardian and other national newspapers. He covers diverse areas as a freelance journalist and has written columns for The Independent on Sunday, timesonline.co.uk and Flush magazine on boxing, legal life and poker. 

Alex has travelled the globe extensively. He has written about New York, Albania and Kazakhstan; Barbados, Ireland and Andalucia; Captain Cook country, Mexico and Francis Ford Coppola's retreats in Belize and Guatemala. Despite a restless life he thinks he's found paradise in West Penwith, Cornwall, where he lives with his wife Karen, an accomplished abstract artist, and their two sons.

Table of Contents

Preface xi

Part One Going to Extremes

Child’s Play? Definitely Not 3

Hold Down 7

Surviving the Atom Blaster 12

Oh My God (Take 1) 18

Size Matters 23

Part Two Tragic Tales

In Memory of Andy Irons 31

Veitch: RIP 36

QED 40

The Peterson Problem 44

Part Three When the Big Stuff Bites

A Bite out of Burle 51

People in Car Crashes Don’t Stop Driving 55

Bare Hands and Bombs 59

The White Zone 66

Part Four Gonzo Interlude

Being Dave Rastovich 75

A Thrust Too Far 87

Do You Know Russell Winter? 92

Four Surfers and a Painting 98

Part Five Contests and Communities

Higher than a High Five 105

Black Clouds and Bellyboards 109

Bad Boy Bobby and the New York Quiksilver Pro 114

The Big M 120

Lord Thurso, Cool in Caithness 123

A Debt at Dungeons 126

After Rio Breaks 133

Part Six Worldwide Waves

Seven Ghosts 139

Hokkaido – The Rights of Passage 145

1,300 Miles for a Wave 150

Ed’s Left, aka the Spot with No Name 153

Loco on Lobos 157

The Lady in the Emerald Green Bathing Dress 162

Purring thanks to ‘Da Cat’ 168

Part Seven Obsession

Peg Leg Rik 175

Soldiers Get Stoked 179

The Daily Wavester 182

The Amazing Mr Slater 186

Part Eight Inspiration

Stoked 193

Colonel ‘Mad Jack’ Churchill 195

OMG (Take 2) 199

Dr Sarah and the Meaning of Surfing 204

Acknowledgements 208

Product Details

ISBN:
9781118340202
Subtitle:
Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders
Publisher:
*Wiley Nautical
Author:
Wade, Alex
Subject:
Sailing
Subject:
surfing, waves, surfing stories, surfers, amazing tales, sea, surfer, surf books, surf photography,
Subject:
Surfing
Subject:
SPORTS & RECREATION / Sailing
Subject:
Sports & Recreation : Sailing - General
Subject:
Sports & Recreation : Water Sports
Copyright:
Edition Number:
3
Publication Date:
20120928
Binding:
Electronic book text in proprietary or open standard format
Language:
English
Pages:
224
Dimensions:
250 x 150 x 15 mm 24 oz

Related Subjects

Sports and Outdoors » Sports and Fitness » Water Sports » General
Transportation » Nautical » Sailing

Amazing Surfing Stories
0 stars - 0 reviews
$ In Stock
Product details 224 pages Wiley Nautical - English 9781118340202 Reviews:
"Synopsis" by , This eclectic mix has something for everyone, from classic tales of monster waves and epic battles to stories of when life among the breakers goes wrong. There are stories of death and disaster, as well as bravery and triumph.  The bizarre and the extreme rub shoulders with accounts of perfect breaks and beautiful beaches. 

Immerse yourself in the legends of surfing like Laird Hamilton and Shane Dorian as well as learning about local heroes who never made the headlines. Epic battles among pros like Rob Machado and Kelly Slater are recounted alongside stories of weird waves and secret surf spots. There are fascinating encounters with surfing’s true characters, men like Dave Rastovich and big wave world record holder Garrett McNamara; appearances by deadly sharks; stories of big wave surfing by night; and an account of how Agatha Christie’s famous disappearance for 11 days in December 1926 might just have been because she was on a surf trip. 

Travel from giants like California’s Maverick’s and Maui’s Jaws to tales of Dungeons, dolphins and the derring-do of a man like Colonel ‘Mad Jack’ Churchill, a surfing pioneer. Turn the pages to flick between the left and rights of the UK, Europe, USA, Australia and many strange places in between.

Each compelling tale has been chosen to stoke the fire of armchair surfers and hardcore wave-riders alike.

"Synopsis" by , HIGHER THAN A HIGH FIVE

Machado saw his friend and, skimming the surface of the sea, put out his left hand. At the same time, Slater instinctively did likewise. The pair high fived in the middle of the biggest surf contest in the world… The roar of the crowd could be heard for miles.

OH MY GOD (TAKE 1)

Hamilton recalls hearing him shouting: “Don’t let go!”, and reckons other voices were also screaming that discretion was the better part of valour. But Hamilton was always going to let go.

DR SARAH AND THE MEANING OF SURFING

How blessed were we, to have a flawless left-hander to ourselves at a break that would normally be overrun? And what a break, too: Spot G is backed by granite cliffs, its water is crystal clear, dolphins and seals are regulars in the line-up and the ambience is other-worldly and ancient.

ED’S LEFTEd barely gave thought to the meaning of this particular session. The whoops of the onlookers amped him as much as the waves. But then it dawned on him: had anyone ever ridden a wave here before?

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