Breakfast, lunch, and dinner may mark the beginning, middle, and end of the Jay, but for centuries Italians have eaten two small, informal meals that come in between. Italy in Small Bites is the first-ever collection Of recipes for these bite-size treats, known as spuntini and merende, the soul food of Italy.

Spuntini, the midmorning snack, can be as simple as a sublime walnut-and-ralsin-studded coffee cake, while merende, which are enjoyed mid-afternoon, might be a wedge Of onion frittata or artichoke tart, a crunchy pillow of fried dough served with figs or prosciutto, a purée of fava beans, or sweet peppers mounded on a slice of rustic country bread.

The best-known merende in America are pizza and focaccia, but there's an entire universe of appealing food revealed in this book. Though the recipes are tied to centuries of tradition that go back to a time when merende reinvigorated laborers in the fields, they're singularly perfect for contemporary eating in America and are as versatile as they are delicious.

Merende make perfect impromptu meals because they are stunningly simple foods meant to make life easy. Some-bruschetta with various toppings, frittate, vegetable tarts, polenta crostini — may be familiar, while others are totally new discoveries. Served individually or in combination, they can become a meal — any meal — and they are healthy, inexpensive, casual, perfect for the relaxed way we live.

Includes bibliographical references (p. [283]-284) and index.

Carol Field is the author of The Italian Baker and Celebrating Italy both of which won the IACP/Tastemaker Award for best book in its category.The latter also won, as aid the author's Hill Towns of Italy, the Commonwealth Club Of California Silver Medal for Literary Excellence. Carol Field lives in San Francisco with her architect husband and continues to travel back and forth to Italy.