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1 Local Warehouse Sports and Fitness- Waterskiing and Surfing

Surfing and the Meaning of Life

by

Surfing and the Meaning of Life Cover

 

Synopses & Reviews

Publisher Comments:

All sports have their cultures, but surfing alone seems to have created a whole style-even a philosophy-of life. In this book, wit and wisdom and living for the wave come together to point the way to the ride of your life-or at least an enjoyable read.

With the words of sages of the surf as unlikely as Mark Twain and Jack London and as close to the heart of the sport as Miki Dora, Greg Noll, Nat Young, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamilton-and with photographs that capture the thrill of the ride-this book explains the meaning of life as only surfers can understand it. And because, as Brock Little remarks in Fade to Black, "Adrenaline is a funny drug," a book about surfing must have its dose of humor-and this one does, along with surfings undeniable rush.

The perfect philosophy gift book for the true surfer. "If you accept all the doctrines of society, you'll never be a surfer."-Nat Young

 
 

Synopsis:

All sports have their cultures, but surfing alone seems to have created a whole philosophy of life.
            In this book, wit and wisdom and living for the wave come together to point the way to the ride of your life—or at least an enjoyable read! With the words of sages of the surf as unlikely as Mark Twain and Jack London and as close to the heart of the sport as Miki Dora, Greg Noll, Nat Young, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamilton, this book explains the meaning of life as only surfers can understand it

About the Author

Ben Marcus grew up surfing Santa Cruz and Malibu.  He served ten years as associate editor at The Surfer magazine, and now writes for The Surfer’s Journal and other surf publications.  Marcus is the author of Voyageur’s Surfing USA!  He lives at the source in Malibu. www.benmarcusrules.com
 
Jeff Divine is one of surfing’s master photographers. Having traveled the world photographing surfers, he’s currently the photo editor at The Surfer’s Journal.
 

Product Details

ISBN:
9780760326534
Author:
Marcus, Ben
Publisher:
Voyageur Press
Photographer:
Divine, Jeff
Photographer:
Marcus, Ben; Divine, Jeff
Author:
Divine, Jeff
Subject:
Water Sports
Subject:
Surfing
Subject:
Surfers
Subject:
General Sports & Recreation
Subject:
Sports and Fitness - Water Sports
Copyright:
Edition Description:
First
Publication Date:
20060831
Binding:
Hardback
Language:
English
Illustrations:
BandW Ill:5 - Color Ill:77
Pages:
96
Dimensions:
5.5 x 5.5 x 0.5 in 0.5 lb

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Related Subjects

Sports and Outdoors » Sports and Fitness » Water Sports » General
Sports and Outdoors » Sports and Fitness » Water Sports » Surfing
Sports and Outdoors » Sports and Fitness » Water Sports » Waterskiing and Surfing

Surfing and the Meaning of Life Used Hardcover
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Product details 96 pages Voyageur Press - English 9780760326534 Reviews:
"Synopsis" by ,
All sports have their cultures, but surfing alone seems to have created a whole philosophy of life.
            In this book, wit and wisdom and living for the wave come together to point the way to the ride of your life—or at least an enjoyable read! With the words of sages of the surf as unlikely as Mark Twain and Jack London and as close to the heart of the sport as Miki Dora, Greg Noll, Nat Young, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamilton, this book explains the meaning of life as only surfers can understand it
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