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Vintage Couture Tailoringby Thomas Von Nordheim
Synopses & Reviews
The trade secrets of couture tailoring are revealed—an invaluable guide for professionals and enthusiasts
Traditional tailoring has not changed for many centuries, however, the techniques are now known only by a few practicing in the best couture ateliers and bespoke tailor's workrooms. Nothing feels quite so luxurious as custom-made clothes, but the tailoring skills they require are often thought to be shrouded in mystery, and the clothes therefore only accessible to the rich and famous. This practical book brings vintage couture tailoring within everyone's reach. With step-by-step photographs and professional tips throughout, it shows how a lady's jacket is made and thereby introduces a range of fundamental tailoring techniques. These can be used for garments for either gender, as well as other sewing projects. The book discusses molding fabric to shape with the iron, employing loose interfacings, hollow shoulder construction, pad stitching canvas, interlining and weighting hems, making tailored and bound buttonholes, and more forgotten techniques.
"If readers are intrigued by the photos of an exquisitely tailored jacket on the slipcover of this book, they may want to pick it up: the creation of that jacket forms the bulk of the text, covering nine out of the 12 chapters. This is not a typical sewing book, full of projects and tips. Instead, von Nordheim, a couture house — trained tailor who runs a successful tailoring business in London, painstakingly guides readers through the myriad steps required to measure, cut, mock up, and sew just such a jacket. The attention to detail is intense, but it makes complete sense coming from a man who observes, 'traditional handcraft tailoring in its pure form is the base for all other sewing. A tailor can make a dress, but a dressmaker cannot make a tailored jacket.' The techniques presented, one assumes, can be used on other garments, although no other garment is shown. While the publishers deserve credit for including dozens of photos, the quality of these pictures can be poor, with less than professional background and lighting. American readers should also note that the book reflects its British origins in many measurements and some vocabulary. Perhaps the biggest flaw of the book, however, is also its great strength — that single-minded devotion to the pure tailoring skill needed to create a single couture jacket. Full color photos." Publishers Weekly Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved.
About the Author
Thomas von Nordheim learned traditional tailoring during an apprenticeship in an old-style German couture salon. For seven years he cut and tailored for an illustrious clientele of aristocrats, politicians, and members of international society at the last surviving great London couture house, Lachasse. When the house closed, Thomas established his own successful business offering tailoring to private clients.
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