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Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete

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Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete Cover

 

Synopses & Reviews

Publisher Comments:

In Training for the New Alpinism, Steve House, world-class climber and Patagonia ambassador, and Scott Johnston, coach of U.S. National Champions and World Cup Nordic Skiers, translate training theory into practice to allow you to coach yourself to any mountaineering goal. Applying training practices from other endurance sports, House and Johnston demonstrate that following a carefully designed regimen is as effective for alpinism as it is for any other endurance sport and leads to better performance. They deliver detailed instruction on how to plan and execute training tailored to your individual circumstances. Whether you work as a banker or a mountain guide, live in the city or the country, are an ice climber, a mountaineer heading to Denali, or a veteran of 8,000-meter peaks, your understanding of how to achieve your goals grows exponentially as you work with this book. Chapters cover endurance and strength training theory and methodology, application and planning, nutrition, altitude, mental fitness, and assessing your goals and your strengths. Chapters are augmented with inspiring essays by world-renowned climbers, including Ueli Steck, Mark Twight, Peter Habeler, Voytek Kurtyka, and Will Gadd. Filled with photos, graphs, and illustrations.

About the Author

Steve House is a world renowned climber, mountain guide, and Patagonia Ambassador, widely regarded for his light-and-fast style. He has published articles in a number of periodicals, and he is the author of Beyond the Mountains (Patagonia Books, 2009). He lives in Ridgway, CO.

Scott Johnston, who grew up in Boulder, CO, has ski raced on a national and international level and is an avid climber. He currently coaches several of the nationand#8217;s top cross country skiers, and climbs, establishing local climbing routes in and around his home town of Mazama, WA, in the North Cascades, where he lives.

Mark Twight has applied the light-and-fast tactics he first developed in Europe to climbs ranging from the Himalayas to Alaska. Mark is the author of two books: Extreme Alpinism and#150; Climbing Light, Fast and High and Kiss or Kill and#150; Confessions of a Serial Climber. He is a Patagonia ambassador, and the founder of GymJones.

Table of Contents

Contents

Foreword: The Edge of the Map, by Mark Tight

Introduction: The Old Becomes New Again

Chapter 1: Training for the New Alpinism

“First Steps, Missteps, by Steve House

Dont Epic—Keep it Under Control, by Ueli Steck

Section 1: The Physiology and Methods of Training

Chapter 2: The Methodology of Endurance Training

The Alpinist as Athlete

Getting Results, by Steve House

The Two Types of Training

Transitions, by Zoe Hart

A Brief Discussion of Physiology Basics

The Adaptation to a Training Stimulus

The Training Effect

The Guiding Principles: Continuity, Gradualness, and Modulation

Specificity

Preparation for Success

The Individuality of Training

Understanding the Language of Intensity

Training Cycles

Periodization

Fatigue and Recovery: How They are Related

Forty Years of Climbing, by Christophe Moulin

Monitoring Your Training

Returning to Training after a Break

Overtraining

Deep Fatigue on Kunyang Chish East, by Steve House

Overtraining Can Lead to Overuse Injury

What Should You Feel?

TINSTAAFL: There Is No Such Thing As A Free Lunch,

by Mark Twight

Chapter 3: The Physiology of Endurance Training

The Evolution of Endurance

The Aerobic Base

The North Face of the North Twin, by Steve House

Fuels for Energy

Fitness, Fat, and Fuel, by Scott Johnston

The Physiology of Endurance

Boosting Your Aerobic Power

More Pieces of the Aerobic Fitness Puzzle

Ultra-Training, by Krissy Moehl

Putting All the Pieces Together

The Base is Crucial

Training for Alpine Climbing in the Former USSR,

by Alexander Odintsov

Chapter 4: The Theory of Strength Training

Strength: Even for Endurance Athletes?

The Difference Between Power and Work, by Tony Yaniro

Strength on Mount Alberta, by Steve House

Chapter 5: The Methodology of Strength Training

What is Strength?

What is Strength Training?

Why Should Climbers Train Strength?

How Strength Training Works

After Injury: The Long, Long Road Back, by Tony Yaniro

Women and Strength

Lifting Weights

Strength Training Terms and Concepts

Core Strength

Periodization for Strength Training

The Value of Specific Strength Training, by Tony Yaniro

Section 2: Planning Your Training

Chapter 6: Assessing Your Fitness

Maximizing Your Fitness

Judging Your Current Strengths

Twelve Hundred Feet, by Caroline George

Setting Goals

The Quest to Climb Everest in a Day, by Chad Kellogg

Chapter 7: Transitioning into Training

Listen to Your Body

The Training Log

Training Plans: Steves Transition Period before Makalu 2009

Planning Your Transition Period

Strength Training During the Transition Period

Core Strength in the Transition Period

Bowls of Jell–O, Links of a Chain, by Scott Johnston

General Strength Training in the Transition Period

Chapter 8: Planning Your Base Period Training

The Importance of the Base

Training is Teamwork, by Roger Schaeli

Fitting Strength Training into Your Base Period Plan

Max Strength Period

Conversion to Muscular Endurance Period p

Building Your Own Base Period Endurance Plan

Marathon Pace, by Kelly Cordes

Chapter 9: Climb, Climb, Climb

Planning the Climbing-Specific Period

Training to Perform, by Will Gadd

Building Your Specific Period Plan

Chapter 10: Tapering

Taper Timing

Section 3: Tools for Training

Chapter 11: Nutrition: Eating with Purpose

Eating for Climbing Performance

The Components of Food

Learning to Fuel, by Steve House

Key Nutritional Knowledge

Eating While Training for Alpine Climbing

Three Sisters in a Day on Only M&Ms, by Scott Johnston

Post-Training Nutrition

Eating While Alpine Climbing

Hitting the Wall, by Vince Anderson

A Few Case Studies in Eating While Alpine Climbing,

by Steve House

Hydration

Eat with Purpose

A Conversation with Peter Habeler, by Steve House

Chapter 12: Altitude: Climbing Higher, Faster

Altitude Physiology Basics

How to Acclimate: Two Strategies

My First 8,000er, by Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner

High Altitude: Your First Time

Acclimatizing: Tips and Tricks

Climb and Acclimatize, by Marko Prezelj

Can You Pre-Acclimate at Your Low-Elevation Home?

Preparing Your Body to Go High

The Khumbu Cough, by Steve House

Expedition Eating, by Steve Swenson

Hydration at High Altitude

Sleeping at Altitude

How Fast Do You De-Acclimate?

Altitude Illnesses and Their Causes

Alone with HAPE, by Steve House

Be Tough and Smart

The Art of Suffering, by Voytek Kurtyka

Chapter 13: Mental Fitness: The Most Difficult 80 Percent

The Mental/Physical Balance

Eighty Percent, by Steve House

Your Ideal Mental State for Climbing?

Motivation

The Unbreakable Will, by Stefan Siegrist

Emotion

Prepare Yourself to Suffer, by Jean Troillet

Fear

Practicing Failing, by Scott Johnston

On Fear, by Danika Gilbert

Fulfillment

Concentration

Flow

The Climb of the Future: 5.13c in 1978, by Tony Yaniro

Confidence

The Necessity of Cycles, by Andreas Fransson

Transcendence

Non-Laziness and Practice

Section 4: Train, Practice, Climb

Chapter 14: Training by Climbing

Going Climbing Versus Training for Climbing

Your Best Days Climbing

Planning a Years Climbing as Training

Cold and Hungry, by Scott Semple

Planning the Individual Periods

Mileage on the Real Thing, by Colin Haley

A Base Period of Climbing

Take a Road Trip

Les Droites, by Barry Blanchard

Climb!

Recuperate and Regenerate

Two Attempts on the Southeast Face of Jyzyl-Asker, by Inis Papert

Chapter 15: The Art of Self-Knowledge

References

Recommended Reading

Appendix: Helpful Nutrition Tables

Glossary

Index

Product Details

ISBN:
9781938340239
Subtitle:
A Manual for the Climber as Athlete
Author:
House, Steve
Author:
Twight, Mark
Author:
Johnston, Scott
Publisher:
Patagonia
Subject:
Mountaineering
Subject:
Outdoors-Mountaineering
Edition Description:
Trade Paper
Publication Date:
20140318
Binding:
Electronic book text in proprietary or open standard format
Language:
English
Illustrations:
Color photos and illustrations throughou
Pages:
464
Dimensions:
9.25 x 7.5 in

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