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1 Burnside Cooking and Food- Italian

Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen: Bold Cooking from Seattle's Anchovies & Olives, How to Cook a Wolf, Staple & Fancy Mercantile, and Tavola Ta

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Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen: Bold Cooking from Seattle's Anchovies & Olives, How to Cook a Wolf, Staple & Fancy Mercantile, and Tavola Ta Cover

 

Synopses & Reviews

Publisher Comments:

ix Acknowledgments

1 Introduction

3 A Note on Ingredients

 

Nibbles and Bits

 

8 Baked Stellar Bay Kusshi Oysters with Garlic Breadcrumbs and Oregano

10 Bruschetta with Smashed Chickpeas and Grilled Lamb’s Tongue

11 Crispy Young Favas with Green Garlic Mayonnaise

13 Beef Carpaccio with Preserved Pecorino Sardoand Arugula

14 Carne Cruda with Anchovy and Garlic

18 Fried Artichokes Pangratatto

21 Fried Ipswich Clams with Sorrel Aioli

23 Fun with Geoduck

24 Geoduck Crudo with Fennel and Radish

24 Geoduck Scramble with Crème Fraîche

25 Manila Clams on the Half Shell with Fennel,Lemon, and Chiles

26 Sardine Crudo with Celery Hearts, Pine Nuts,and Lemon

28 Marinated Octopus

29 Pickled Vegetables

31 Sea Bass Crudo with Vanilla Oil, English Peas,and Mint

32 Soft-Shell Crab Bruschetta with Spring Garlic Aioli

32 Spot Prawn Crudo with Chile and Mint

34 Frittata with Morels and Savory

35 Bruschetta with Fresh Ricotta and Pine NutSalsa Verde

37 Soft-Boiled Eggs with Anchovy Mayonnaise

38 Shigoku Oysters on the Half Shell withAccompaniments

39 Uni Spoons

 

The Measure of a Cook: Soups

 

42 Soups with Artichokes

42 Essence of Artichoke Soup

42 Farro and Artichoke Soup

44 Mediterranean Mussel and Chickpea Soup withFennel and Lemon

46 Clam Brodetto

47 Parmesan Brodo

48 Oxtail Soup with Farro and Root Vegetables

51 Farmers’ Market Soup

52 English Pea Soup with Poached Duck Egg

53 Kabocha and Porcini Soup

54 Corn and Chanterelle Soup

56 Heirloom Tomato Soup with Garlic Croutons

57 Sorrel and Yogurt Soup

 

Starches to Grow On: Gnocchi, Polenta, Risotto, and Farrotto

 

60 Basic Potato Gnocchi

63 Gnocchi with Morels and Fried Duck Egg

64 Ricotta Gnocchi with Beef Short Rib Ragu

66 Polenta Master Recipes

66 Soft Polenta

66 Firm Polenta

68 Sautéed Chicken Livers with Mushrooms andOnions on Soft Polenta

69 Grilled Polenta with Heirloom Tomatoes andPounded Anchovy Sauce

70 Sautéed Polenta with Hedgehog Mushroomsand Aged Provolone

71 A Trio of Spring Risottos

71 Spring Garlic Risotto

72 Ramp Risotto with Shaved Porcini

73 Artichoke Risotto

74 Clam Risotto with Lemon

76 Butternut Squash Risotto with Hazelnut Oil

77 Farrotto with English Peas and Morels

79 Duck Leg Farrotto with Pearl Onions andBloomsdale Spinach

 

Wheat’s Highest Calling: Pasta

 

84 Pasta Master Recipes

84  Egg Pasta

84  Semolina Pasta

89 Braised Rabbit Paws with Radiatore

90 Linguine with Shrimp

91 Cavatelli with Cuttlefish, Spring Onion, and Lemon

92 Fava Bean Agnolotti with Snails and Herbed Butter

95 Gnocchetti with Pancetta, Chanterelles, and Mint

96 Tagliarini with Totten Virginica Oysters, Prosecco,Chives, and Cream

97 Maloreddus with Squid, Tomato Sauce, and Lemon

98 Spaghetti with Garlic, Chile, and Sea Urchin

100 Trofie with Nettle Pesto

102 Pappardelle with Tomato Sauce and MarinatedPecorino Sardo

103 Bigoli with Grilled Sardines and Fennel

104 Duck Egg Ravioli with Ricotta and Swiss Chard

105 Switch-Hitting Clams with Ramps

106 Cannelloni with Braised Pork Cheeks andSweet Cicely

 

Something Foraged, Something Green: Salads, Vegetables, and Sides

 

110 Baby Beet Salad with Fresh Ricotta

111 Endive Salad with Creamy Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette

112 Seared Rabbit Loin with Frisée and Pancetta

115 Lentils with Pancetta

116 Fried Cauliflower with Ham Hock

119 Lobster Mushrooms with Preserved Garlic, Parsley, and Oregano

120 Miner’s Lettuce, Fava Beans, English Peas, and Spring Garlic with White Balsamic Vinaigrette

121 Shaved Artichoke and Wild Watercress Salad

122 Blood Orange Salad with Shallot andTaggiasca Olives

125 Rapini with Garlic, Chile, and Lemon

126 Delicata Squash with Chestnut Honey

127 Puntarelle with Anchovy, Garlic, and Parsley Dressing

128 Pickled Mackerel Salad with Watercress, Radish,and Pistachio

131 Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Artichokes with Garlic and Thyme

132 Company Alligator Pear

135 Panzanella with Crispy Pig’s Ear

137 Potato and Asparagus Salad with Home-Cured Bacon and Egg

138 Thumbelina Carrots with Orange and Mint

140 Pheromone Salad (Shaved Porcini Salad)

141 Swiss Chard with Pine Nuts and Golden Raisins

 

Beasties of the Land . . .

 

144 Braised Pork Jowls with the Maligned Mélange

146 Home-Cured Bacon

148 Lamb Chops with Finger Favas

149 Venison Loin with Cipollini Agrodolce

150 Veal Sweetbreads with Parsley, Capers, and Lemon

152 Seared Duck Breast with Sugared Figs and Arugula

153 Braised Veal Cheeks with Grilled Ramps and Porcini

155 Skillet-Roasted Rabbit with Pancetta-Basted Fingerlings

156 Roast Quail Stuffed with Pancetta, Lacinato Kale, and Sage

158 Pan-Roasted Squab with Spring Garlic Compote

159 Party Meats

159  Party Tripe on Soft Polenta

160  Zatar-Rubbed Leg of Goat with Fresh Chickpeas, Spring Onion, and Sorrel

162  Grilled T-Bone with Garlic, Lemon, and Controne Beans

163  Italian “Tacos”

 

. . . and Sea

 

167 Grilled Sardines with Baby Fennel, Capers, and Taggiasca Olives

168 Mob-Hit Squid

170 Fluke with Radish and Citrus Relish

171 Ode to the Northwest (with a Nod to Cincinnati)

172 Roasted Skate Wing with Brown Butter and Potatoes

174 Black Bass with Thyme, Lemon, and Garlic

175 Poached Black Bass with Spring Garlic and Mint

177 Seared Scallops with Chanterelles and Parsnip and Pear Purée

178 Steamed Clams with Guanciale and Sorrel

179 Prosciutto-Wrapped Soft-Shell Crab Cigars with Shaved Radish and Arugula Salad

181 Grilled Mackerel with Crispy Potatoes and Caperand Preserved Lemon Sauce

 

Cheese for the Civilized and Desserts for the Rest of You

 

184 Goat Cheese with Chestnut Honey andHazelnut Dust

185 Ginepro with Gin-Soaked Pear

186 La Tur with Oven-Roasted Tomato Petals

189 Lemon Verbena Panna Cotta with Poached Peaches

190 Robiola with Gooseberry Compote

191 Cacio Faenum with Baked Apricot and Almond Purée

192 Rhubarb Soup with Prosecco

193 Roasted Figs with Chocolate-Espresso Ganache

194 Chocolate Ice Cream

195 Toasted Walnut Ice Cream

196 Pear–Star Anise Ice Cream

197 Melon Sorbet

199 Campari–Blood Orange Sorbet

200 Blueberry-Basil Sorbet

201 Espresso Granita with Grappa Cream

202 Zabaglione with Mixed Berries

203 Cardamom Sablés

204 Pie Cookies

205 Pine Nut Crumbles

206 Almond Cake with Bay-Poached Queen Anne Cherries

208 Chocolate Pumpkin Tart

 

Building Blocks: Condiments, Sauces, and Staples

 

216 Basic Tomato Sauce

217 Mayonnaise

217 Preserved Garlic

218 Preserved Lemons

218 Preserved Pecorino Sardo

219 Salsa Verde

220 Garlic Breadcrumbs

220 Basic Chickpeas

Review:

"The title's 'new' claim is apt; this is no red-sauce cookbook. The proprietor of three popular, ingredient-driven, Italian-inspired Seattle restaurants presents a collection of recipes rich with flavor and often featuring intriguing taste combinations. Cavatelli with cuttlefish, spring onion, and lemon has a hit of spice from chili flakes, and a roast quail is stuffed with pancetta, lacinato kale, and sage. As with any good chef-written book, readers will find gems of kitchen wisdom--like which parts of watercress to use in a salad and how to prepare beef to make carne cruda with the perfect texture--casually sprinkled throughout. A humorous chapter on cheese and desserts includes such intriguing presentations as La Tur with oven-roasted tomato; lemon verbena panna cotta with poached peaches; and roasted figs with chocolate-espresso ganache. Like the other recipes in the book, these showcase fresh ingredients and have a decidedly modern feel. (Oct.)" Publishers Weekly (Copyright PWyxz LLC)

Synopsis:

Welcome to Ethan Stowell’s New Italian Kitchen--not so much a place as a philosophy. Here food isn’t formal or fussy, just focused, with recipes that honor Italian tradition while celebrating the best ingredients the Pacific Northwest has to offer. We’re talking about a generous bowl of steaming handmade pasta--served with two forks for you and a friend. Or perhaps an impeccably fresh crudo, crunchy cucumber and tangy radish accenting impossibly sweet spot prawns. Next up are the jewel tones of a beet salad with lush, homemade ricotta, or maybe a tangle of white beans and clams spiked with Goat Horn pepper--finished off with a whole roasted fish that begs to be sucked off the bones. Oh, some cheese, a gooseberry compote complementing your Robiola, or the bittersweet surprise of Campari sorbet. 

 

This layered approach is a hallmark of Ethan’s restaurants, and in his New Italian Kitchen, he offers home cooks a tantalizing roadmap for re-creating this style of eating. Prepare a feast simply by combining the lighter dishes found in “Nibbles and Bits”—from Sardine Crudo with Celery Hearts, Pine Nuts, and Lemon to Crispy Young Favas with Green Garlic Mayonnaise—or adding recipes with complex flavors for a more sophisticated meal. Try the luscious Corn and Chanterelle Soup from “The Measure of a Cook;” or the Cavatelli with Cuttlefish, Spring Onion, and Lemon from “Wheat’s Highest Calling.” Up the ante with a stunning Duck Leg Farrotto with Pearl Onions and Bloomsdale Spinach from “Starches to Grow On,” or choose one of the “Beasties of the Land,” like Skillet-Roasted Rabbit with Pancetta-Basted Fingerlings. Each combination will nudge you and your guests in new, unexpected, and unforgettable directions.

 

Every page of Ethan Stowell’s New Italian Kitchen captures the enthusiasm, humor, and imagination that make cooking one of life’s best and most satisfying adventures. It’s got to be good--but it’s also got to be fun.

Synopsis:

The debut cookbook from Seattle’s most acclaimed young chef, Ethan Stowell, chef/owner of Union, Tavolata, How to Cook a Wolf, and Olives and Anchovies, featuring refined yet unfussy modern-Italian cooking that showcases the best of Pacific Northwest ingredients.

In this dynamic collection, Ethan Stowell honors Italian tradition while celebrating his Pacific Northwest roots. Recipes like Mediterranean Mussel and Chickpea Soup with Fennel and Lemon reflect Ethan’s sophisticated yet always approachable style, while Venison Loin with Cippolini Agrodolce and Gnocchetti with Pancetta, Chanterelles and Mint highlight his drive to innovate. Stowell’s down-to-earth sensibility permeates each page, capturing the enthusiasm and imagination that make cooking an adventure in the kitchen.

About the Author

ETHAN STOWELL was honored with a James Beard Award nomination for Best Chef Northwest, and was named one of the 2008 Best New Chefs in America by Food and Wine magazine, among other accolades. His restaurants have received rave reviews from Food and Wine, Wine Spectator, and Gourmet, and Bon Appétit and GQ each named Stowell restaurants in their Top Ten in America. LESLIE MILLER’s writing has appeared in anthologies and periodicals. She is partner in the writing and editing firm Girl Friday Productions.

Table of Contents

“When acclaimed Seattle chef Ethan Stowell set out to write a cookbook, his goal was to create one that inspires home cooks but doesn't take itself too seriously — a tall order for any chef-driven book. But "Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen" achieves all that and more, showcasing the refined but unfussy Italian-meets-Pacific Northwest dishes that earned Stowell multiple James Beard Award nominations.”

—Portland Oregonian, Best of 2010, 12/21/10

“Ethan Stowell is to Italian food what David Chang is to Asian food, not a purist but a flavor junkie and a stickler for quality. Both make big bold food and manage to coax the most flavor out of everything they make. They seduce you with texture and intensity. They are not about authenticity, but about creating fantastic food. Hallelujah!”

—Cooking with Amy, Top Cookbooks 2010, 12/18/10

“Baked Stellar Bay Kusshi oysters with garlic breadcrumbs, cannelloni with braised pork cheeks and sweet cicely, zatar-rubbed leg of goat with fresh chickpeas and sorrel — this is the gutsy Northwestern spin that Seattle chef Ethan Stowell puts on Italian cuisine. Big flavors, local ingredients and compelling flavor combinations are the hallmarks of his recipes.”

—L.A. Times, 12/9/10

“The celebrated Seattle chef offers his brash take on nose-to-tail Italian. Party tripe on soft polenta for everyone!”

—The New York Times Book Review, Web Extra: 25 More Cookbooks, 12/3/10

“Crazy for the soft-boiled eggs with anchovy mayo at How to Cook a Wolf on Queen Anne? (I am!) You'll find the recipe here. Ever wonder how to clean a geoduck? (I have.) Chef Ethan Stowell provides the pictorial process, and a recipe for geoduck crudo — just like they serve at his Capitol Hill comer Anchovies & Olives. And of course, there's a whole chapter on pasta, fresh and dried (the star of the show at Tavolata in Belltown).”

—Seattle Times, 12/2/10

“Above the rank and file of Italian cookbooks.”

—StarChefs.com, Top 10 Cookbooks 2010: Honorable Mention, November 2010

"The perfect homage to traditional Italian cooking – but sexier! Dive into this one; New Italian Kitchen is fun, delicious and guaranteed to get the creative kitchen juices flowing!"

—Guest blogger Kathy Casey, Al Dente, Amazon food blog, 11/15/10

The title's "new" claim is apt; this is no red-sauce cookbook. The proprietor of three popular, ingredient-driven, Italian-inspired Seattle restaurants presents a collection of recipes rich with flavor and often featuring intriguing taste combinations. Cavatelli with cuttlefish, spring onion, and lemon has a hit of spice from chili flakes, and a roast quail is stuffed with pancetta, lacinato kale, and sage. As with any good chef-written book, readers will find gems of kitchen wisdom--like which parts of watercress to use in a salad and how to prepare beef to make carne cruda with the perfect texture--casually sprinkled throughout. A humorous chapter on cheese and desserts includes such intriguing presentations as La Tur with oven-roasted tomato; lemon verbena panna cotta with poached peaches; and roasted figs with chocolate-espresso ganache. Like the other recipes in the book, these showcase fresh ingredients and have a decidedly modern feel. (Oct.)

—Publishers Weekly, 9/6/10

"Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen is not only a great collection of accessible recipes that compel one to start cooking right away, and it also reveals a chef with soul. This book perfectly captures the spirit of Ethan and his team, their soulful, delicious food, and the vitality of their restaurants in the great city of Seattle."

—David Kinch, James Beard Award–winning chef and owner of Manresa

 

“Ethan is a true chef’s chef. He has a great respect for the seasons, the farms, and the fishermen who supply him, which is reflected in his restaurants and in the dishes he prepares.”

—David Pasternack, chef-owner of Esca and author of The Young Man and the Sea: Recipes and Crispy Fish Tales from Esca

 

“Ethan Stowell is a northwestern jewel is every epicurean sense of the word. His influence on the Seattle food scene is unmistakable, and his personal take on Italian food is at once sophisticated yet simple and understated--a delectable combination. I appreciate Ethan’s intrinsic wine savvy; his food seamlessly matches at the table, creating memorable and delicious pairings.”

—Evan Goldstein, author of Perfect Pairings and Daring Pairings

 

“Ethan’s passion for fresh and delicious food has been a staple at his restaurants for years, and the craftsmanship in his dishes is a testament to his drive for serving soulfully inspired foods. Now the world can take a glimpse into the mind and recipes that have set Ethan apart from the rest.”

—Chris Cosentino, executive chef of Incanto

Product Details

ISBN:
9781580088183
Author:
Stowell, Ethan
Publisher:
Ten Speed Press
Author:
Miller, Leslie
Subject:
Regional & Ethnic - Italian
Subject:
Italian
Subject:
Cooking and Food-Italian
Series Volume:
Fancy Mercantile, an
Publication Date:
20100931
Binding:
HARDCOVER
Grade Level:
General/trade
Language:
English
Illustrations:
80 4-COLOR PHOTOS
Pages:
240
Dimensions:
10.3 x 9.3 x .9 in 2.54 lb

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Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen: Bold Cooking from Seattle's Anchovies & Olives, How to Cook a Wolf, Staple & Fancy Mercantile, and Tavola Ta Used Hardcover
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$13.50 In Stock
Product details 240 pages Ten Speed Press - English 9781580088183 Reviews:
"Publishers Weekly Review" by , "The title's 'new' claim is apt; this is no red-sauce cookbook. The proprietor of three popular, ingredient-driven, Italian-inspired Seattle restaurants presents a collection of recipes rich with flavor and often featuring intriguing taste combinations. Cavatelli with cuttlefish, spring onion, and lemon has a hit of spice from chili flakes, and a roast quail is stuffed with pancetta, lacinato kale, and sage. As with any good chef-written book, readers will find gems of kitchen wisdom--like which parts of watercress to use in a salad and how to prepare beef to make carne cruda with the perfect texture--casually sprinkled throughout. A humorous chapter on cheese and desserts includes such intriguing presentations as La Tur with oven-roasted tomato; lemon verbena panna cotta with poached peaches; and roasted figs with chocolate-espresso ganache. Like the other recipes in the book, these showcase fresh ingredients and have a decidedly modern feel. (Oct.)" Publishers Weekly (Copyright PWyxz LLC)
"Synopsis" by , Welcome to Ethan Stowell’s New Italian Kitchen--not so much a place as a philosophy. Here food isn’t formal or fussy, just focused, with recipes that honor Italian tradition while celebrating the best ingredients the Pacific Northwest has to offer. We’re talking about a generous bowl of steaming handmade pasta--served with two forks for you and a friend. Or perhaps an impeccably fresh crudo, crunchy cucumber and tangy radish accenting impossibly sweet spot prawns. Next up are the jewel tones of a beet salad with lush, homemade ricotta, or maybe a tangle of white beans and clams spiked with Goat Horn pepper--finished off with a whole roasted fish that begs to be sucked off the bones. Oh, some cheese, a gooseberry compote complementing your Robiola, or the bittersweet surprise of Campari sorbet. 

 

This layered approach is a hallmark of Ethan’s restaurants, and in his New Italian Kitchen, he offers home cooks a tantalizing roadmap for re-creating this style of eating. Prepare a feast simply by combining the lighter dishes found in “Nibbles and Bits”—from Sardine Crudo with Celery Hearts, Pine Nuts, and Lemon to Crispy Young Favas with Green Garlic Mayonnaise—or adding recipes with complex flavors for a more sophisticated meal. Try the luscious Corn and Chanterelle Soup from “The Measure of a Cook;” or the Cavatelli with Cuttlefish, Spring Onion, and Lemon from “Wheat’s Highest Calling.” Up the ante with a stunning Duck Leg Farrotto with Pearl Onions and Bloomsdale Spinach from “Starches to Grow On,” or choose one of the “Beasties of the Land,” like Skillet-Roasted Rabbit with Pancetta-Basted Fingerlings. Each combination will nudge you and your guests in new, unexpected, and unforgettable directions.

 

Every page of Ethan Stowell’s New Italian Kitchen captures the enthusiasm, humor, and imagination that make cooking one of life’s best and most satisfying adventures. It’s got to be good--but it’s also got to be fun.

"Synopsis" by , The debut cookbook from Seattle’s most acclaimed young chef, Ethan Stowell, chef/owner of Union, Tavolata, How to Cook a Wolf, and Olives and Anchovies, featuring refined yet unfussy modern-Italian cooking that showcases the best of Pacific Northwest ingredients.

In this dynamic collection, Ethan Stowell honors Italian tradition while celebrating his Pacific Northwest roots. Recipes like Mediterranean Mussel and Chickpea Soup with Fennel and Lemon reflect Ethan’s sophisticated yet always approachable style, while Venison Loin with Cippolini Agrodolce and Gnocchetti with Pancetta, Chanterelles and Mint highlight his drive to innovate. Stowell’s down-to-earth sensibility permeates each page, capturing the enthusiasm and imagination that make cooking an adventure in the kitchen.

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