History in a Glass: Sixty Years of Wine Writing from Gourmet (Modern Library Food)

When Gourmet magazine debuted in the 1940s, America's wineries were still reeling from the lingering effects of Prohibition and the loss of wines from war-torn Europe. But for every closed door, there was an open bottle: The bleak postwar years were actually a prelude to today's unprecedented and widespread appreciation for the grape. New York Times bestselling author Ruth Reichl reread sixty-five years of wine articles in Gourmet to select the best for History in a Glass. The result is a rollicking tale of great meals, great walks, and wonderful drinks as Americans discover the pleasures of wine.

These marvelous essays were written by men and women who were not only on hand to witness wine's boom but, in many cases, helped to foster the environment that made it thrive. The early days after World War II provided a great opportunity for James Beard and Frank Schoonmaker to reacquaint oenophiles with the joys of European wines. Through tireless dispatches from the Continent, they inspired American vintners to produce world-class wines on their own rich soil. In subsequent pieces, an impressive, surprisingly diverse roster of writers revel in the sensual and emotional pleasures of wine: the legendary Gerald Asher reflects on the many faces of Chianti; Hillaire Belloc dispenses bits of wisdom by the glass to his niece on her wedding day; the science fiction titan Ray Bradbury rhapsodizes about the earthy pleasures of dandelion wine; Kate Colman explores the moral quandary surrounding a friend's unintentionally generous gift of a rare Bordeaux; Hugh Johnson reports on Hungarian varieties during the height of Cold War tensions in the early 1970s; even Gourmet's current spirits editor, James Rodewald, reminisces on the first time he fell in love — with a bottle of Pinot Noir.

With an Introduction by Ruth Reichl, and covering more than six decades of epicurean delights, History in a Glass is an astonishing celebration of all things good and grape.

"Gourmet's editor-in-chief peers into the archives for an intriguing perspective on wine-making history since the magazine's 1941 founding. Reichl culls from a cornucopia of famous food writers — Gerald Asher, James Beard, Frank Schoonmaker — and bares an unabashed boosterism for American wines. As Schoonmaker notes in a series of shimmering early pieces, American vintners had a grand opportunity for growth during the war years, with eminent French chateaux under German control, and yet American viticulture was still reeling from the abuses of Prohibition. Moreover, American vintners resisted using indigenous grape varieties, ignoring 'the greatest natural grape-growing area on the earth's surface.' With time, the second 'American Revolution' was achieved, as Hugh Johnson and Frederick S. Wildman Jr. note enthusiastically in articles from the 1960s and '70s. Meanwhile, Gourmet's bon vivants traveled from France's Bordeaux, Burgundy, Côte d'Or and Rhône regions to Germany's Rhineland, Hungary's elusive Tokay and Spain's Sherry capital, Jerez de la Frontera. Hugh Johnson's supercilious essay 'The Wines of Italy' (1972) asks sneeringly, 'What great wines, if any, are there in Italy?' thus demonstrating the occasional datedness of the pieces. Wines of Chile, Australia and New Mexico have also inspired these literary oenophiles, happily so. (On sale Mar. 7)" Publishers Weekly Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

"This worthwhile anthology perfectly illustrates the maturity of American taste." Booklist

"[T]he signed and dated columns are not particularly in-depth but offer enjoyable eyewitness snapshots from a particular time and place." Library Journal

"A fascinating history of wine culture in America, with an eloquence that spans generations. It's a great wine primer, and very entertaining. Crack open some claret, fry up some frogs' legs, and drink in several lifetimes' worth of wine wisdom." David Lynch, co-author of Vino Italiano and Vino Italiano Buying Guide

"What better way to get an education in the world of wine than taking a stroll through time while reading commentary from Gourmet's most important contributors? Not only have many of these writers captured our attention for over forty years, but many of them have profoundly influenced our wine-drinking culture as well." Daniel Johnnes, wine director, Montrachet

"The pages of Gourmet take us on a retrospective journey through America's ever-evolving love of wine and its terroir; we are drawn to wine because it transcends our humanity, telling our story, exposing our desires, and giving us hope for great vintages to come." Joseph Bastianich, wine director, Otto Enoteca

"A dazzling historical and literary tour of wine and the wine life by some of our wisest, most entertaining professionals. History in a Glass includes a treasure trove of great meals and great bottles. I read it through in one go." Kermit Lynch, author of Adventures on the Wine Route and Inspiring Thirst

Ruth Reichl is the editor in chief of Gourmet magazine. She is the bestselling author of Tender at the Bone: Growing Up at the Table; Comfort Me with Apples: More Adventures at the Table; and Garlic and Sapphires: The Secret Life of a Critic in Disguise. She has been the chief restaurant critic of the Los Angeles Times and the New York Times. She lives in New York City.