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Dancing the Wave: Audacity, Equilibrium, and Other Mysteries of Surfingby Jean-etienne Poirier
Synopses & Reviews
There is no greater or more powerful or more pure human rapport with the elements than that experienced by a surfer dancing with the ocean. In Dancing the Wave, Jean-Etienne Poirier brings alive the world of surfing by offering historical, anthropological, and cultural perspectives on this increasingly popular sport. By recounting tales of his own surfing adventures, he opens the door to this world beyond the summer sun and simple pleasures of the ride, inviting readers to reflect upon the true place of human beings in the universe.
This book is for all board riders, for all those who are touched by the forces of the ocean, and for all those who wish to understand the boldness of surfers, who join power and elegance in that harmonious dance with the sinuous movement of the wave.
Why are growing numbers of young people taking up surfing, spending hours floating silently on their boards, studying wave patterns, and are ready to risk serious injury for a few moments of harmony with the ocean's force? This work interweaves history and mythology to introduce the art of surfing.
About the Author
Jean-Etienne Poirier is an avid surfer, skier, and skateboarder, as well as a journalist and cultural anthropologist. He has consulted for international aid organizations, and he lectures on travel themes and mountain climbing.
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