The Dressmaker's Handbook of Couture Sewing Techniques: Essential Step-By-Step Techniques for Professional Results

Fashion designer and expert sewist Lynda Maynard tackles each professional technique with clear instructions in simple step-by-step stages. Once these skills are understood, sewists will embrace their dressmaking projects with more confidence and the ability to create chic, refined looks. The Dressmakers Handbook of Couture Sewing Techniques unlocks the door to stunning results with better shaping, simpler construction methods, and professional finishing touches. Lynda also explains several seemingly difficult “secrets,” from making bindings and finishing for hems, armholes, and necklines to underpinnings and structuring techniques. Plus, she teaches how to master finishing touches from textured stitches to couching and appliqué. A complete guide to the fabrics suited to each technique and inspirational fashion photography are also included.

product. She is known in the industry as a fit specialist and is the author of the audio book De-Mystifying Fit.

Part One / Couture Bindings and Finishes

This section does away with traditional facings—those pesky pattern pieces that seem to fly off the work space never to be seen again. Also, facings roll out or add bulk, and no woman wants added bulk!

Binding Techniques

• Banded V-neck on knits

• Banded V-neck on wovens

• Ribbon V-neck (may picot)

• Single fold binding on knits (neckline/armhole)

• Baby French bind on linen with double needle finish

• Banded curve finish on linen with serged, double needle finish (neckline/armhole)

• Double fold binding on wovens

• Double fold charmeuse binding applied to charmeuse garment

• Double fold charmeuse binding on chiffon

• Baby French bind—chiffon on chiffon with organza

Banded/encased hemline finishes

• Wide charmeuse band top-stitched to front

• Decorative trim top stitched to front

• Ribbon trimmed hem, top stitched to front

• Charmeuse binding on chiffon/ free flow

Part Two / Designer Underpinnings

This section explores some of the more “difficult” fabrics that seem challenging and intimidating to novices. Various handling methods can make these fabrics more “user friendly.” With the proper underpinnings, the personality of the fashion fabric can be altered to allow you to take charge.

• Charmeuse with challis

• Charmeuse with crepe de chine

• Charmeuse with batiste

• Velvet with washed organza

• Velvet with flannel

• Velvet with batiste

• Dupioni with flannel

• Wool with voile

• Wool with challis

Part Three/ Finishing Touches

This section offers a wide variety of innovative techniques and thought-provoking applications to finish your garment in style. Incorporate these suggestions to create your own unique style and personal signature.

• Grosgrain ribbon on inside of collar band

• Satin pocket bags

• Waistline “flip out” pouch

• Button-on garment sections

• Hong Kong finish to outside

• Organza “bubble” at hemline

• Petersham “peek” on a wrap skirt/ waistband

• Charmeuse ribbon work free flow/ optical illusion

• Channel stitching with flannel on charmeuse (collar/cuffs/hemband)

• Corded (collar/cuffs/hemband)

• Chiffon with organza flange down center front

• Charmeuse with welt and picot edge (collar/cuff/center front/hemline)

• Curved waistband (determining need)

• Double needle hem on knits and wovens with Lycra

Resources

Index

Credits