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Patternmakingby Sylvia Rosen
Synopses & Reviews
Written by a seasoned professional Fashion Designer, this comprehensive reference covers all the technical aspects of developing precise professional patterns for garments. The focus throughout is on the procedures and principles of professional flat patternmaking using Basic Slopes (i.e., Pattern Blocks, Master Patterns, or Foundation Patterns), and on cutting and testing each completed pattern in tissue, pinned on the form completely marked. The exceptionally clear and visually detailed illustrations can easily be understood by readers without having to read the accompanying text. All the patterns diagrammed are shown in the exact stages and sequence of development--from plot to completion--including all necessary markings, such as punch holes, notches, seams, and grain lines. All About Patterns. Introduction to Pattern Making. CAD. Preparing the Form for Measurement. Drafting Basic Slopers from Measurements. All About Slopers. Sub-Sloper Development. Dart Manipulation: Pivot and Slash (Bodices; Skirts; Sleeves; Collars: Concave, Convex, and Straight; Flat and Stand Variations; Sleeve Bodice Combinations: Fitted and Deep Armhole Variations; Shirt; Suit-Coat; Capes and Hoods; Pant--Culotte-Shorts; Jumpsuits; and Dresses). Garment Details--Construction and Finishing (Buttons and Buttonholes; Seam Finishes; Hem Finishes; Buttons, Hooks and Eyes, Snaps; Basting Stitches). Figure Analysis: Bodytypes. Overview of the Fashion Industry. For fashion design students, professional designers, and anyone in the business of fashion design, regardless of their level of expertise.
This text covers all the technical aspects of developing precise professional patterns for garments, and gives students a firm foundation in the tools, concepts, and understandings necessary for success in this highly competitive industry. The focus throughout is on the procedures and principles of professional flat patternmaking using Basic Slopers (i.e., Pattern Blocks, Master Patterns, or Foundation Patterns), and on cutting and testing each completed pattern in tissue, pinned on the form completely marked. This enables the student to learn, and review, the concepts for developing patterns, step-by-step and see the translation of style lines from a two-dimensional flat pattern on the table, to a three-dimensional pattern on a mannequin (fitting dummy). This text is an excellent visual learning tool, especially critical to the vast number of ESL and International students attending design schools.
About the Author
Sylvia Rosen has 35 years of industry experience as a Designer, Design Director, and Merchandiser, working and commuting to New York from her native Philadelphia. She was employed by industry leaders including Jordache, Members Only, John Henry, Haggar, Devon Apparel, and Andover Togs; traveling to the Orient for many years, working with buyers from major chains and stores. Ms. Rosen ran her own company in New York, where she designed and manufactured an upscale collection of girls' pre-teen, jr. dresses and sportswear. These sold to better department and specialty stores and boutiques. Simultaneously, Ms. Rosen has for 28 years been an instructor at Parsons School of Design in New York, where she currently continues to teach fashion design students. She is also an Adjunct Associate Professor in Design and Merchandising at Drexel University, Philadelphia, and a freelance consultant and technical designer in New York.
Table of Contents
1. Introduction to Patterns and Patternmaking.
What Is a Pattern? What Is Patternmaking? How Are Patterns Used? Pattern Development. The Designer. History of Patterns and Patternmaking. Pattern and Design Terminology. Tools for Patternmaking. Supplies for Patternmaking. Basic Rules for Patterns. Preparing the Dress Form for Measurement. Different Forms for Different Functions.
2. Introduction to Slopers.
Front Measurements. Back Measurements. Skirt Measurements. Sleeve Measurements. Measurements for Pants. Measurements for Pants: Crotch. Style Lines for Pants. Measurements and Style Lines for Skirts. Drafting Basic Slopers from Measurements. Basic One-Piece Straight Sleeve Draft. Walking the Sleeve Around the Armhole. Adding Ease to Slopers. Basic Length Pants. Completing Patterns and Slopers.
3. Slopers and Sub-Slopers.
1/4 Scale Slopers. 1/2 Scale Slopers and Sub-Slopers.
4. Introduction to Dart Manipulation.
Basic Bodice. Bodices: Tucks. Bodice: Gathers and More. Bodice: Necklines.
5. Necklines and Collars.
Neck Facings. Collars.
6. Short Sleeves.
Short Sleeves (4" Below Biceps). Short Sleeves with Raised and Gathered Caps. Short Petal Sleeves (One and Two Piece).
Basic A-Line (Flared) Skirt. Circle Skirts. Godet Skirts. Six-Gore Skirts.
8. Bodice and Sleeve Pattern.
Revere Bodice with Three-Dart Short Sleeve. Short Kimono Sleeve.
9. Sleeve/Bodice Combinations.
Raglan Sleeves. Fitted Drop Shoulder Sleeves. Deep Armhole Drop Shoulder Sleeves. Kimono Sleeves with Gusset. Kimono/Dolman Sleeve Variations. Batwing Sleeves.
Shirt and Shirttail Hem. Action Sleeve with Roll-Up Cuff. Deep Armhole Raglan. Basic Raglan Shirt Sleeve and Variation.
Shirt Collar. Bow Tie Collar. Turtleneck Collar.
Long Straight Sleeve to One-Dart Shaped Sleeve. Set-In Sleeves.
Skirt Shapes. Skirt Styles and Patterns.
14. Capes and Hoods.
15. Torso Slopers.
Torso Slopers. Patterns for Torso Slopers.
16. Garment Details.
Buttons and Buttonholes. Seam, Hem, and Sewing Stitches. Snaps and Zippers.
17. Figure Analysis.
Body Shapes. Basic Silhouettes and Shapes Used for Apparel Designs.
18. The Fashion Industry.
Fashion Personnel. Color. The Manufacturing Process. Flats and Specs.
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