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eBook editionsSurfing and the Meaning of Lifeby Ben Marcus
Synopses & ReviewsPublisher Comments:“Out of the water, I am nothing.” —Duke Kahanamoku “All I need are some tasty waves and a cool buzz and Im fine.” —Jeff Spicoli All sports have their cultures, but surfing alone seems to have created a whole philosophy of life. In this book, wit and wisdom and living for the wave come together to point the way to the ride of your life—or at least an enjoyable read! With the words of sages of the surf as unlikely as Mark Twain and Jack London and as close to the heart of the sport as Miki Dora, Greg Noll, Nat Young, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamilton, this book explains the meaning of life as only surfers can understand it. And because, as Brock Little remarks, “Adrenaline is a funny drug,” a book about surfing must have its dose of humor—and this one does, along with surfings undeniable rush. “If you accept all the doctrines of society, youll never be a surfer.”—Nat Young Opt out, read on, surfs up! Synopsis:All sports have their cultures, but surfing alone seems to have created a whole style-even a philosophy-of life. In this book, wit and wisdom and living for the wave come together to point the way to the ride of your life-or at least an enjoyable read.
With the words of sages of the surf as unlikely as Mark Twain and Jack London and as close to the heart of the sport as Miki Dora, Greg Noll, Nat Young, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamilton-and with photographs that capture the thrill of the ride-this book explains the meaning of life as only surfers can understand it. And because, as Brock Little remarks in Fade to Black, "Adrenaline is a funny drug," a book about surfing must have its dose of humor-and this one does, along with surfings undeniable rush.
The perfect philosophy gift book for the true surfer. "If you accept all the doctrines of society, you'll never be a surfer."-Nat Young About the AuthorBen Marcus grew up surfing Santa Cruz and Malibu. He served ten years as associate editor at The Surfer magazine, and now writes for The Surfer’s Journal and other surf publications. Marcus is the author of Voyageur’s Surfing USA! He lives at the source in Malibu. www.benmarcusrules.com Jeff Divine is one of surfing’s master photographers. Having traveled the world photographing surfers, he’s currently the photo editor at The Surfer’s Journal. What Our Readers Are SayingBe the first to add a comment for a chance to win!Product Details
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