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West of Jesus: Surfing, Science and the Origins of Belief

by Steven Kotler

West of Jesus: Surfing, Science and the Origins of Belief Cover

ISBN13: 9781596910515
ISBN10: 1596910518
Condition: Standard
Dustjacket: Standard
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Synopses & Reviews

Publisher Comments:

After spending two years in bed with Lyme disease, Steven Kotler had lost everything: his health, his job, his girl, and, he was beginning to suspect, his mind. Kotler, not a religious man, suddenly found himself drawn to the sport of surfing as if it were the cornerstone of a new faith. Why, he wondered, when there was nothing left to believe in, could he begin to believe in something as unlikely as surfing. What was belief anyway? How did it work in the body, the brain, our culture, and human history?

Into this mix came a strange story. In 2003, on a surf trip through Mexico, Kotler heard of "the conductor," a mythical surfer who could control the weather. He'd heard this same tale eight years earlier, in Indonesia, but this time something clicked. With the help of everyone from rebel surfers to rocket scientists, Kotler undertakes a three year globetrotting quest for the origins of this legend. The results are a startling mix of big waves and bigger ideas: a surfer's journey into the biological underpinnings of belief itself.

Review:

"After surviving a battle with Lyme disease, Kotler finds himself searching for a reason to live and turns to his love of surfing. The novelist (The Angle Quickest for Flight) and journalist travels to Mexico, where he hears a story about a magical being called 'the Conductor,' who controls the surf. Having heard the same tale eight years earlier while surfing in Indonesia, Kotler decides to seek out the legend's source while researching the inherent mysticism of surfers and their sport. Detailing his journey and findings, Kotler creates a work that combines the most compelling elements of memoir, travelogue and scholarly abstract into an accessible tale of physical and mental adventure. Up for anything, Kotler seeks out big waves, bungee jumping and a risky helicopter ride. He also delves into far-flung topics: surfing's history, Joseph Campbell's work on myths, Jungian psychology, Zen Buddhism, government 'weather modification' experiments and the religious beliefs of islanders like the Maori and Hawaiians. The book reaches its peak when Kotler focuses on the inner workings of the human brain. His reasoning of how genetic and biological factors combine with physical and emotional experiences to create the spiritual 'funkytown' feeling unique to surfing is both enlightening and inspirational. (June)" Publishers Weekly (Copyright Reed Business Information, Inc.)

Review:

"In the end he finds the source of the legend, but by then the Conductor has become secondary to Kotler's quest for the spiritual side of surfing. He wants to know why catching waves offers Zen moments unavailable to, say, motocross riders." Outside

About the Author

Steven Kotler's novel The Angle Quickest for Flight was a San Francisco Chronicle bestseller and won the William L. Crawford IAFA Fantasy Award. His nonfiction has appeared in the New York Times Magazine, GQ, National Geographic, Details, Wired, Men's Journal, Maxim, Salon, and elsewhere. He has surfed all over the world and lives in Los Angeles, California.

What Our Readers Are Saying

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Average customer rating based on 1 comment:
Andrew Kaplan, February 1, 2008 (view all comments by Andrew Kaplan)
Through the trope of the surf pilgrimage, Kotler illuminates the many aspects of surfing that have made it not merely a sport, but also a way of life: surfing's connections to religion and spirituality, the mythical tradition, health and neurology. His frank, humorous and spare writing plunges us into the center of the world of surfing. The result is a portrait of faith and the human soul as invigorating as being out there on the ocean ourselves, gliding down the face of a breaking wave.
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Product Details

ISBN:
9781596910515
Subtitle:
Surfing, Science and the Origins of Belief
Author:
Kotler, Steven
Publisher:
Bloomsbury Publishing PLC
Subject:
General
Subject:
Spiritual life
Subject:
United states
Subject:
Water Sports
Edition Description:
Us
Publication Date:
June 2006
Binding:
Hardcover
Language:
English
Pages:
261
Dimensions:
8.42x6.40x.94 in. .94 lbs.
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