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1 Beaverton Cooking and Food- Award Winners

Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone

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Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone Cover

 

 

Excerpt

Warm Crostini with Blue Cheese and Walnuts

I love to serve these with a glass of sherry, a bowl of pumpkin soup, or a salad of pears and endive.  The butter melts into the crisp toast; the cheese stays on top.  It's heady and very aromatic.

Makes 8

8 slices baguette or country bread

4 ounces Roquefort, Maytag, or Danish blue

3 tablespoons butter at room temperature

1 teaspoon cognac

1/4 cup finely chopped walnuts

Freshly milled pepper

Finely chopped parsley

Toast the bread under the broiler until nicely browned on one side, then a little less so on the second.  Cream the cheese and butter until smooth, then work in the cognac and three-quarters of the walnuts and season with pepper.  Spread on the paler side of the toasts, then broil until the cheese is bubbling.  Remove, dust with the remaining nuts, and garnish with parsley.  Serve warm.

Lentil Soup

Savored over a large part of the world, lentil soups are one of the best-liked, easiest-to-cook, and most varied of soups.  The earthy flavor of lentils is complemented by Indian spices, Western herbs, cream, tomato, greens, and anything slightly tart, such as sorrel or lemon.

German brown lentils are the ones we see most commonly, and they make good soups.  But the tiny French slate-green Le Puy lentils, available at specialty stores and in bulk at many natural food stores, make the prettiest and most delicious soups.  They're entirely worth the slight extra cost, and in my kitchen they are the lentil of choice.  Indian red split lentils turn yellow when cooked and fall into a puree, as do other split lentils, which makes them ideal for smooth lentil soups.

Lentils don't need to be soaked, but they do need to be picked over for tiny stones.  They cook in just 25 minutes, and salt should be added at the beginning.  Like most bean soups, lentil soups taste better a day after they're made.

Lentil Minestrone

This is one of my all-time favorite soups.  It's better when cooked ahead of time, but add the cooked pasta and greens just before serving so that they retain their color and texture.

Serves 4 to 6

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra virgin to finish

2 cups finely chopped onion

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1/4 cup chopped parsley

4 garlic cloves, chopped

3 carrots, diced

1 cup diced celery or celery root

Salt and freshly milled pepper

1 cup dried green lentils, sorted and rinsed

Aromatics: 2 bay leaves, 8 parsley branches, 6 thyme sprigs

9 cups water or stock

Mushroom soy sauce to taste

1 bunch greens--mustard, broccoli rabe, chard, or spinach

2 cups cooked small pasta--shells, orecchiette, or other favorite shape

Thin shavings of Parmesan, preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano

Heat the oil in a wide soup pot with the onion.  SautÚ over high heat, stirring frequently, until lightly browned, about 10 minutes.  Add the tomato paste, parsley, garlic, vegetables, and 2 teaspoons salt and cook 3 minutes more.  Add the lentils, aromatics, and water and bring to a boil.  Lower the heat and simmer, partially covered, for 30 minutes.  Taste for salt and season with pepper.  If it needs more depth, add mushroom soy sauce to taste, starting with 1 tablespoon.  (The soup may seem bland at this point, but the flavors will come together when the soup is finished.) Remove the aromatics.

Boil the greens in salted water until they're tender and bright green, then chop them coarsely.  Just before serving, add the greens and the pasta to the soup and heat through.  Serve with extra virgin olive oil drizzled into each bowl, a generous grind of pepper, and the Parmesan, thin shards or grated.

Winter Squash Soup with Fried Sage Leaves

The technique used to make this soup can be repeated for other soups, the seasonings--be they sweet or spicy--varied to suit your tastes.  Although the soup is good without it, the cheese adds a flavor note that punctuates the natural sweetness of the squash.  The Warm Crostini with Blue Cheese and Walnuts are also an excellent accompaniment.

Serves 4 to 6

2 1/2 to 3 pounds winter squash

1/4 cup olive oil, plus extra for the squash

6 garlic cloves, unpeeled

12 whole sage leaves, plus 2 tablespoons chopped

2 onions, finely chopped

Chopped leaves from 4 thyme sprigs or 1/4 teaspoon dried

1/4 cup chopped parsley

Salt and freshly milled pepper

2 quarts water or stock

1/2 cup Fontina, pecorino, or ricotta salata, diced into small cubes

Preheat the oven to 375° F.  Halve the squash and scoop out the seeds.  Brush the surfaces with oil, stuff the cavities with the garlic, and place them cut sides down on a baking sheet.  Bake until tender when pressed with a finger, about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small skillet, heat the 1/4 cup oil until nearly smoking, then drop in the whole sage leaves and fry until speckled and dark, about 1 minute.  Set the leaves aside on a paper towel and transfer the oil to a wide soup pot.  Add the onions, chopped sage, thyme, and parsley and cook over medium heat until the onions have begun to brown around the edges, 12 to 15 minutes.  Scoop the squash flesh into the pot along with any juices that have accumulated in the pan.  Peel the garlic and add it to the pot along with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and the water and bring to a boil.  Lower the heat and simmer, partially covered, for 25 minutes.  If the soup becomes too thick, simply add more water to thin it out.  Taste for salt.

Depending on the type of squash you've used, the soup will be smooth or rough.  Puree or pass it through a food mill if you want a more refined soup.  Ladle it into bowls and distribute the cheese over the top.  Garnish each bowl with the fried sage leaves, add pepper, and serve.

Celery Root and Potato Gratin

A broth made from the celery root trimmings replaces half of the cream usually found in potato gratins without loss of flavor or texture.  Celery root has a haunting flavor that always reminds me of truffles, which are an excellent addition should you be so lucky.  (If I were using truffles, I would use all cream in the dish.)

Serves 4 to 6

1 garlic clove and butter for the dish

1 celery root, about 1 pound, scrubbed

1 pound potatoes, preferably Yellow Finn or Yukon Gold

1/2 cup cream

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

Salt and freshly milled pepper

1 cup grated Gruyère

Preheat the oven to 375° F.  Rub a 2-quart gratin dish with the garlic and then with butter.

Peel the celery root and put the parings in a 3-quart saucepan with 3 cups water and whatever remains of the garlic.  Set a steamer over the top and bring to a boil.  Quarter the root, then slice it 1/4 inch thick.  Steam for 5 minutes and remove to a large bowl.

Peel the potatoes, slice them into thin rounds, and steam for 5 minutes or until tender, then add them to the celery root.  Strain the cooking liquid, measure 1 1/4 cups, and mix it with the cream and mustard.  Pour it over the vegetables and toss well.  Season with 3/4 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste.  Transfer the vegetables to the gratin dish, smooth them out, and cover with the cheese.  Bake until bubbling and browned on top, about 30 minutes.

Roasted Onions on a Bed of Herbs

A spectacular-looking dish for minimal effort--perfect for the holidays.  Look for onions with crisp, papery skins.  They're fine without the herbs, too.

Serves 6

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 large yellow onions, halved and peeled

Salt and freshly milled pepper

4 sage sprigs and several thyme sprigs

1 cup dry white wine or water

Heat the butter and oil in a wide skillet, then add the onions, cut sides down.  Cook over medium-high heat until well browned, about 15 minutes.  Check their progress occasionally--those on the outside of the pan usually take longer to cook, so partway through switch them with those in the middle.  When browned, turn them over and cook on the curved side for a few minutes.  Season well with salt and pepper.

Preheat the oven to 375° F.  Line the bottom of a 10-inch earthenware dish such as a round Spanish casserole with the herbs.  Place the onions, browned side up, on the herbs and pour in the wine.  Cover with aluminum foil and bake until tender when pierced with a knife, 1 hour or slightly longer.  Serve warm with or without the Quick Vinegar Sauce for Onions.

Chard and Onion Omelet (Trouchia)

These Provenþal eggs, laced with softened onions and chard, never fail to elicit sighs of appreciation.  I'm forever grateful to Nathalie Waag for making trouchia when she came to visit--it has since become a favorite.  The trick to its success is to cook everything slowly so that the flavors really deepen and sweeten.

Serves 4 to 6

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 large red or white onion, quartered and thinly sliced crosswise

1 bunch chard, leaves only, chopped

Salt and freshly milled pepper

1 garlic clove

6 to 8 eggs, lightly beaten

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

2 tablespoons chopped basil

2 teaspoons chopped thyme

1 cup grated Gruyère

2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a 10-inch skillet, add the onion, and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until completely soft but not colored, about 15 minutes.  Add the chard and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until all the moisture has cooked off and the chard is tender, about 15 minutes.  Season well with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, mash the garlic in a mortar with a few pinches of salt (or chop them finely together), then stir it into the eggs along with the herbs.  Combine the chard mixture with the eggs and stir in the Gruyère and half the Parmesan.

Preheat the broiler.  Heat the remaining oil in the skillet and, when it's hot, add the eggs.  Give a stir and keep the heat at medium-high for about a minute, then turn it to low.  Cook until the eggs are set but still a little moist on top, 10 to 15 minutes.  Add the remaining Parmesan and broil 4 to 6 inches from the heat, until browned.

Serve trouchia in the pan or slide it onto a serving dish and cut it into wedges.  The gratinéed top and the golden bottom are equally presentable.

Soufflés

Few dishes are as dramatic as a soufflÚ.  The whole dish swells like an enormous inhalation--then, within moments of serving, collapses.  In spite of such drama, soufflés are not at all difficult to make.  You simply make a stiff béchamel, beat in egg yolks, add cheese and/or other fillings, and finally fold in billowy whisked egg whites.  Vegetable soufflÚs incorporate a cup or so of pureed vegetable into the base.  They don't rise quite as high but are still impressive.  A pudding soufflé is the same dish baked in a water bath, which tempers the rise but also slows the fall, giving the cook some leeway for serving as well as the further advantage of reheating.  Roulades are soufflés baked flat in sheet pans (jelly roll pans), then rolled around a filling and sliced or, if you prefer, cut into strips, stacked, and served like a soft, savory Napoleon.

Goat Cheese Soufflé with Thyme

Of all soufflés, this is my favorite.  The enticing aroma of goat cheese is very seductive, and the little pockets of melted cheese are found treasures.  Although a classic soufflé dish forms a high, puffed crown, I often bake this and other soufflés in a large shallow gratin dish instead.  It still looks marvelous, it bakes more quickly, and this way there's plenty of crust for everyone.

Serves 4

Butter, plus 2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan, for the dish

1 1/4 cups milk or cream

Aromatics: 1 bay leaf, several thyme sprigs, 2 thin onion slices

3 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons flour

Salt and freshly milled pepper

Pinch cayenne

4 egg yolks

1 cup (about 4 ounces) crumbled goat cheese, preferably a Bucheron or other strong-flavored cheese

6 egg whites

Several plump thyme sprigs, leaves only

Preheat the oven to 400° F.  Butter a 6-cup soufflé dish or an 8-cup gratin dish and coat it with the Parmesan.  Heat the milk with the aromatics until it boils.  Set it aside to steep for 15 minutes, then strain.

Melt the butter in a saucepan.  When foamy, stir in the flour and cook over low heat for several minutes.  Whisk in the milk all at once and stir vigorously for a minute or so as it thickens, then add 3/4 teaspoon salt, a few twists of pepper, and the cayenne.  Remove from heat.  Beat in the egg yolks one at a time until well blended, then stir in the cheese.  Don't worry about getting it smooth.

Beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt until they form firm peaks, then stir a quarter of them into the base to lighten the mixture.  Fold in the rest, transfer to the prepared dish, then put in the center of the oven and lower the heat to 375° F.  Bake for 30 minutes or until golden and just a bit wobbly in the center.  Remove, scatter the thyme over the top, and serve immediately.

What Our Readers Are Saying

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Average customer rating based on 4 comments:

Max, August 22, 2012 (view all comments by Max)
I've had friends ask me what one vegetarian cookbook they should buy-- this is always the one I recommend. This is the joy of cooking for vegetarian cooks, meaning that it is virtually encyclopedic in its scope, and completely reliable. I find the section on savory tarts to be particularly good (tomato tart = yum!) I often use these recipes as bases for experimentation when I'm feeling creative as well. I have a large collection of cookbooks, and this is one of the ones I continually return to. I highly recommend it!
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P J, June 15, 2009 (view all comments by P J)
I purchased the cookbook and so far every recipe I have tried has ended up in dire need of fixing. They always leave me scrambling at the end when I make them so I don't hear "DO NOT serve me this again." Also the directions on some leave a lot to be desired. For example one recipe says add flour to the water you are cooking it in then drain the water. The flour did absolutely nothing. Either the author needs to learn what ingredients do or needs a much better editor. The book is currently holding my computer screen to a good height. That rates a 5. For food? 1 or 2.
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Holly O'Connor, July 25, 2007 (view all comments by Holly O'Connor)
This book is an essential resource in my kitchen, and has come to re-define comfort food in my house. Full of simple and surprising recipes, it offers ideas for every season. Go ahead and pick up that unusual vegetable from the farmers' market, even if it's something you've never tried. This book will, no doubt, offer several delicious ideas for preparing it.
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Product Details

ISBN:
9780767900140
Author:
Madison, Deborah
Publisher:
Clarkson Potter
Author:
Madison, Deborah
Location:
New York :
Subject:
Cookery
Subject:
Vegetables
Subject:
Vegetarian
Subject:
Vegetarian cookery
Subject:
Specific Ingredients - Vegetables
Subject:
Vegetarian - General
Edition Number:
1st ed.
Series Volume:
516
Publication Date:
20071106
Binding:
Hardback
Grade Level:
General/trade
Language:
English
Illustrations:
24 4-COLOR PHOTOGRAPHS, LINE DRAWINGS TH
Pages:
752
Dimensions:
10.44x8.18x1.92 in. 4.35 lbs.

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Related Subjects


Cooking and Food » Award Winners » General
Cooking and Food » Vegetarian and Vegan » Vegetarian and Natural

Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone Used Hardcover
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Product details 752 pages Broadway Books - English 9780767900140 Reviews:
"Staff Pick" by ,

I run across many, many cookbooks, and more often than not take them home to try them out. This cookbook has quickly become one of my favorites. Every recipe — really, every one! — that I've tried so far has been excellent — not just good or successful, but above and beyond what I expected. There's no shortage of material, either; this cookbook is huge, sturdy, and will last a lifetime. Most recipes are very easy, and I love Madison's clarity (at the beginning she tells you what size carrot, onion, or garlic she assumes). The introduction is thorough and relevant for cooks at any level, bringing cooking back to its essence: experimentation, fresh ingredients, and pleasure. And, as Madison states on the cover, you don't have to be a vegetarian to enjoy these recipes; you could add meat to many, and the book is worth keeping for its extensive section on vegetables and side dishes alone. If I had a kitchen fire, this is the cookbook I'd rescue.

"Publishers Weekly Review" by , "It would be difficult to select a favorite section from this incredibly complete and triumphant effort." Publishers Weekly (starred review)
"Review" by , "Here it is — the complete vegetarian bible."
"Review" by , "If I could have only one book on the subject of vegetables, Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone would be it. Deborah Madison has produced an impressive collection of information, instruction, and recipes."
"Review" by , "Deborah Madison is an intuitive, intelligent, and passionate cook who presents her broad knowledge in a lovely, lyrical writing style. She has clearly poured all of these gifts into this impressive book, which I know will be an inspiration to experienced cooks and beginners alike." Mollie Katzen, host of public television's Mollie Katzen's Cooking Show, and author of The Moosewood Cookbook and Mollie Katzen's Vegetarian Heaven
"Review" by , "Deborah Madison's new book is utterly credible and accessible, because she writes the same way she cooks and gardens: with passion and knowledge."
"Synopsis" by , What Julia Child is to French cooking and Marcella Hazan is to Italian cooking, Deborah Madison is to contemporary vegetarian cooking. At Greens restaurant in San Francisco, where she was the founding chef, and in her two acclaimed vegetarian cookbooks, Madison elevated vegetarian cooking to new heights of sophistication, introducing many people to the joy of cooking without meat, whether occasionally or for a lifetime. But after her many years as a teacher and writer, she realized that there was no comprehensive primer for vegetarian cooking, no single book that taught vegetarians basic cooking techniques, how to combine ingredients, and how to present vegetarian dishes with style. Now, in a landmark cookbook that has been six years in the making, Madison teaches readers how to build flavor into vegetable dishes, how to develop vegetable stocks, and how to choose, care for, and cook the many vegetables available to cooks today. <BR>"Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone is the most comprehensive vegetarian cookbook ever published. The 1,400 recipes, which range from appetizers to desserts, are colorful and imaginative as well as familiar and comforting. Madison introduces readers to innovative main course salads; warm and cold soups; vegetable braises and cobblers; golden-crusted gratins; Italian favorites like pasta, polenta, pizza, and risotto; savory tarts and galettes; grilled sandwiches and quesadillas; and creative dishes using grains and heirloom beans. At the heart of the book is the A-to-Z vegetable chapter, which describes the unique personalities of readily available vegetables, the sauces and seasonings that best complement them, and the simplest ways to prepare them. "Becoming aCook" teaches cooking basics, from holding a knife to planning a menu, and "Foundations of Flavor" discusses how to use sauces, herbs, spices, oils, and vinegars to add flavor and character to meatless dishes. In each chapter, the recipes range from those suitable for ever
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