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Arthur Schwartz's New York City Food: An Album, History & Cookbook
Synopses & Reviews
Arthur Schwartz is the Big Apple's official foodie-about-town, the Schwartz who ate New York City, a fellow who has fork-and-knived his way through the five boroughs. He knows his knish from his kasha, his bok choy from his bruschetta, his falafel from his frittata. And in Arthur Schwartz's New York City Food, he shares his gastronomic expertise, chronicling the city's culinary history from its Dutch colonial start (think crullers and coleslaw) to its current status as the multicultural food capital of the world. For good measure, Schwartz also includes 160 recipes for American classics that either originated or were perfected in New York: Manhattan Clam Chowder, Eggs Benedict, Lindy's cheesecake, Lobster Newburg.
Schwartz is not only informed, he's funny, and throughout the book he covers everything from the phenomenon of the celebrity chef to his first meeting with James Beard. His text is transporting, taking readers back to Delmonico's, the Colony, the Horn & Hardart Automats, and the once-popular Childs Restaurant with its renowned buttery pancakes. Whether revealing how an obscure dish known as Omelet Surprise was transformed into the decidedly chichi dessert Baked Alaska; investigating why some Jewish restaurants came to be known as Roumanian steakhouses; or instructing readers on the way to bake a molten chocolate minicake worthy of Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Schwartz is the ideal dining companion.
"Chapters on New York City's massive ethnic influences ('The Jews,' 'The Italians,' 'The Chinese') mingle with ones on various kinds of eating establishments ('Grand Hotel Dining,' 'Steakhouses,' 'Hot Dogs') and with sections on 'The Corner Bakery' and 'The Golden Age of Cocktails' in this sumptuous celebration of Gotham's cuisine. Schwartz, a native New Yorker, has been dishing about the city's food for years on the radio, and here he catalogs dishes that are known the world over as well as ones that are nearly extinct. He reveals, for example, that only one bakery-in Brooklyn-still makes Nesselrode Pie, a 'glorious mound of chocolate-curl-covered rum-, chestnut-, and candied-fruit-flavored Bavarian cream,' and that New York Cheesecake is a descendent of the cheesecakes of Eastern Europe. He also includes concise profiles of famous New York foodies, like New York Times critic Craig Claiborne and Lutèce chef-proprietor André Soltner. Scintillating photographs of culinary delights such as Lobster Newberg (created at Delmonico's in the mid-1870s) and Biscuit Tortoni (which, before 'the tiramisu explosion,' was one of the city's most popular Italian-American desserts) complete this delightful volume." Publishers Weekly (Copyright Reed Business Information, Inc.)
The Big Apple's official foodie-about-town shares his gastronomic expertise, chronicling the city's culinary history from its Dutch colonial start to its current status as the multicultural food capital of the world. Schwartz also includes 160 recipes for American classics that either originated or were perfected in New York.
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