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The Big Juice: Epic Tales of Big Wave Surfing

by

The Big Juice: Epic Tales of Big Wave Surfing Cover

 

 

Excerpt

 

Fifty years ago, pioneering big-wave surfer Buzzy Trent said, “Big waves are not measured in feet and inches, but in increments of fear.”

 

*

 

Up at Mavericks, Peter Mel had surfed two amazing waves and was up on his third when it hit an undersea ledge and jacked vertical, sucking the bottom out of the wave. As the six-story wall of water folded and detonated, Mel simply ducked, covered, and prayed. “It was like I was run over by Niagara Falls,” he says. “I thought it was going to tear the limbs off my body.” His partner Ryan Augenstein rushed in and stopped cold.  The ocean was so churned, the impeller couldnt get a grip in the foam - like a car spinning its wheels in snow. As another wave bore down, the jet ski suddenly caught, Mel grabbed the sled and the two shot to safety. “It was one of the most amazing saves Ive ever seen,” Mel says. At 12:30 a rescue team motored out. A crab boat named Good Guys had foundered, its two fishermen lost to the waves.

 

Down at Ghost Tree, Anthony Ruffo had tow-surfed into four menacing bombs. Peter Davi was determined to tow into at least one wave on his traditional paddleboard. “Im 45 years old and I want one of the f***ing waves,” he said from the back of Sorensens Jet Ski. “Those were the last words I heard him say,” Sorensen says.

 

 

 

 

Product Details

ISBN:
9780762769933
Author:
Long, John
Publisher:
FalconGuide
Author:
George, Sam
Author:
Long1, John
Subject:
Water Sports
Subject:
Sports and Fitness - Water Sports
Edition Description:
Trade Paper
Publication Date:
20111131
Binding:
TRADE PAPER
Language:
English
Illustrations:
75 full-color photos throughout
Pages:
336
Dimensions:
9 x 6 in

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Related Subjects

Featured Titles » Home and Leisure
Sports and Outdoors » Sports and Fitness » Water Sports » General
Sports and Outdoors » Sports and Fitness » Water Sports » Surfing
Sports and Outdoors » Sports and Fitness » Water Sports » Waterskiing and Surfing

The Big Juice: Epic Tales of Big Wave Surfing New Trade Paper
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$18.95 In Stock
Product details 336 pages FalconGuide - English 9780762769933 Reviews:
"Synopsis" by ,
24 classic big wave surfing stories.

"Synopsis" by ,
Incredible stories of a new generation of thrill-seeking, death-defying surfers and stunning, full-color photography of monster waves fill the pages of this new collection by John Long and former surfing pro Sam George.

"Synopsis" by ,
More than a decade ago, John Long published his now classic The Big Drop, an unprecedented look at the larger-than-life frontier of big wave surfing. Since then the sport has exploded in popularity. The big wave bar keeps rising as extreme surfers continue to seek out, surf, and survive enormous waves. The incredible stories of a new generation of thrill-seeking, death-defying surfers and stunning photography of monster waves fill the pages of this collection.
 
The Big Juice is a powerful, contemporary look at the men and women who live and breathe for the next big wave and the bigger, more dangerous challenge. Their stories provide a rich history of characters, controversies, heroism, humor, and tragedy that define the sport.
 
Contributors include:

Ben Marcus • Chris Dixon • Kimball Taylor • Rusty Long • Drew Kampion • Tony Harrington 

 Matt Warshaw • James Hollmer-Cross • Evan Slater • Shane Dorian • Ted Gugelyk • Brad Melekian

Brock Little • Greg Noll • and more

"Synopsis" by ,

The best and newest big-wave surfing stories from the sport’s insiders

 

More than a decade ago, John Long published his now-classic The Big Drop, an unprecedented and visually stunning look at that most attention-grabbing category of images and stories—surfers hurtling down titanic walls of water. Since then, big-wave surfing, which ranks with the most exciting of adventure sports, has exploded in popularity. Now, Long and former surfing pro Sam George provide a worthy sequel for a new generation of surfers, The Big Juice.

 

A powerful, contemporary look at the men and women who live and breathe for the next big wave and the bigger, more dangerous challenge, The Big Juice presents a rich history of characters, controversies, heroism, humor, and tragedy define the sport. A vein of true grit runs through the cutting-edge athletes who challenge these monster waves, and that same vein can be found in this outstanding collection of more than twenty stories illustrated by jaw-dropping photographs.

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