Synopses & Reviews
I strongly recommend this book for anyone trying to wrap their mind around fitting and sewing techniques. The couture techniques detailed in this book can easily be applied to many different style garments.” - Debbie Colgrove, About.com Guide
Packed with essential, step-by-step professional techniques and tips, this guide takes the mystery out of the sewing and finishing techniques that many dressmakers assume are either extremely difficult or are only for professional fashion designers.
Packed with professional techniques and tips, The Dressmakers Handbook of Couture Sewing Techniques
takes the mystery out of the sewing and fi nishing techniques that many dressmakers assume are either extremely diffi cult or are only for professional fashion designers.
Fashion designer and expert sewist Lynda Maynard tackles each professional technique with clear instructions in simple step-by-step stages. Once these skills are understood, sewists will embrace their dressmaking projects with more confidence and the ability to create chic, refined looks. The Dressmakers Handbook of Couture Sewing Techniques unlocks the door to stunning results with better shaping, simpler construction methods, and professional finishing touches. Lynda also explains several seemingly difficult secrets,” from making bindings and finishing for hems, armholes, and necklines to underpinnings and structuring techniques. Plus, she teaches how to master finishing touches from textured stitches to couching and appliqué. A complete guide to the fabrics suited to each technique and inspirational fashion photography are also included.
About the Author
Lynda Maynard has been designing and sewing clothes much of her life. She has a B.A. in textiles and clothing from San Jose State University and is an adjunct professor in the fashion design departments of two community colleges and a private design school in the San Francisco Bay area. She also has a private clientele challenging her to develop innovative techniques to create a superior
product. She is known in the industry as a fit specialist and is the author of the audio book De-Mystifying Fit.
Table of Contents
Part One / Couture Bindings and Finishes
This section does away with traditional facingsthose pesky pattern pieces that seem to fly off the work space never to be seen again. Also, facings roll out or add bulk, and no woman wants added bulk!
Banded V-neck on knits
Banded V-neck on wovens
Ribbon V-neck (may picot)
Single fold binding on knits (neckline/armhole)
Baby French bind on linen with double needle finish
Banded curve finish on linen with serged, double needle finish (neckline/armhole)
Double fold binding on wovens
Double fold charmeuse binding applied to charmeuse garment
Double fold charmeuse binding on chiffon
Baby French bindchiffon on chiffon with organza
Banded/encased hemline finishes
Wide charmeuse band top-stitched to front
Decorative trim top stitched to front
Ribbon trimmed hem, top stitched to front
Charmeuse binding on chiffon/ free flow
Part Two / Designer Underpinnings
This section explores some of the more difficult” fabrics that seem challenging and intimidating to novices. Various handling methods can make these fabrics more user friendly.” With the proper underpinnings, the personality of the fashion fabric can be altered to allow you to take charge.
Charmeuse with challis
Charmeuse with crepe de chine
Charmeuse with batiste
Velvet with washed organza
Velvet with flannel
Velvet with batiste
Dupioni with flannel
Wool with voile
Wool with challis
Part Three/ Finishing Touches
This section offers a wide variety of innovative techniques and thought-provoking applications to finish your garment in style. Incorporate these suggestions to create your own unique style and personal signature.
Grosgrain ribbon on inside of collar band
Satin pocket bags
Waistline flip out” pouch
Button-on garment sections
Hong Kong finish to outside
Organza bubble” at hemline
Petersham peek” on a wrap skirt/ waistband
Charmeuse ribbon work free flow/ optical illusion
Channel stitching with flannel on charmeuse (collar/cuffs/hemband)
Chiffon with organza flange down center front
Charmeuse with welt and picot edge (collar/cuff/center front/hemline)
Curved waistband (determining need)
Double needle hem on knits and wovens with Lycra