Synopses & Reviews
The end-all-be-all guide to ramen from Ivan Orkin, the iconoclastic New York-born owner of Tokyo's top ramen shop.
While scores of people line up outside American ramen powerhouses like Momofuku Noodle Bar, chefs and food writers in the know revere Ivan Orkin's traditional Japanese take on ramen. Ivan Ramen chronicles Orkin's journey from dyed-in-the-wool New Yorker to the chef and owner of one of Japan's most-loved ramen restaurants, Ivan Ramen. His passion for ramen is contagious, his story fascinating, and his recipes to-die-for, including master recipes for the fundamental types of ramen, and variations on each. Likely the only chef in the world with the knowledge and access to convey such a candid look at Japanese cuisine to a Western audience, Orkin is perfectly positioned to author what will be the ultimate English-language overview on ramen and all of its components.
"As the rhythm of his name foretells, duality emanates from Orkin in a nearly oracular manner. He is of two lands: Tokyo, where his ramen has drawn raves, and his native New York, where he learned the restaurant trade at Mesa Grill and Lutèce, and where soon he will be opening a new noodle shop. He has had two wives, as we learn from this text, which is one part compelling autobiography and one part cookbook (plus a hilarious foreword from David Chang on America's inability to eat ramen properly). His signature meal, shio ramen, is a noodle soup made from two broths: chicken, and a seaweed/seafood mixture known as dashi. Orkin spends a leisurely 35 pages to explore, photograph, and dissect every component of this dish, from the chicken fat that harks back to the schmaltz he grew up with to the toasted rye noodles and the cured bamboo shoots. A half-cooked egg, sliced perfectly in two with a piece of fishing line, completes the presentation. The remaining handful of recipes tell you what to do with the leftovers (make an omelet made with dashi, wash the bamboo shoots down with a beer) or offer some ramen variations such as ago tsukemen, which is rich in roasted garlic and served cold." Publishers Weekly Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved.
"Ivan Ramen is a wonderful glimpse into the delicious, inspiring world of Ivan Orkin." Danny Bowien, James Beard Award–winning chef of Mission Chinese Food
"We are all fortunate that a young Ivan Orkin, growing up in 1970s suburban Long Island, fell in love with Japanese food. If he hadn’t, the world would never know Ivan’s amazing ramen, one of the most powerfully delicious noodle soups on the planet." Chad Robertson, James Beard Award–winning chef, author, and co-founder of Tartine Bakery and Bar Tartine
"Ivan has dedicated his whole life to understanding and creating the perfect bowl of ramen, and he has mastered the two most critical elements: the noodles and the broth. He consistently delivers the best bowls I’ve experienced in my life. Completely authentic, completely delicious." Ming Tsai, James Beard Award–winning chef, author, and owner of Blue Ginger and Blue Dragon
“What Ivan Orkin does not know about noodles is not worth knowing.” Anthony Bourdain chef, author, and host of Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown
About the Author
Ivan Orkin is the owner of Ivan Ramen, which has two locations in Tokyo and a third opening in Manhattan in 2013. He has been covered by the New York Times
, Wall Street Journal
, CNN, NPR, CBS Sunday Morning Show
, Japan Times
, and the Discovery Channel. His article on ramen was the centerpiece of Lucky Peach
's first issue.
Chris Ying is the editor-in-chief of Lucky Peach quarterly and editor and designer of the Mission Street Food cookbook, which has been rewarded for its innovative approach with spots on both the New York Times Bestseller List and its list of 100 Notable Books of 2011.
Table of Contents
Foreword by David Chang
A COOK'S LIFE
Answers from a Master: Shimazaki-San
Confessions of a Noodle Addict: Ohsaki-San
IVAN RAMEN'S SHIO RAMEN
Shio Ramen: The Complete Bowl
Toasted Rye Noodles
Pork Belly Chashu
Schmaltz-Fried Chicken Katsu
Dashi Maki Tamago
Cold Tofu with Menma
VARIATIONS ON A NOODLE
Roasted Garlic Mazemen
Toasted Sesame and Spicy Chile Tsukemen
Ago Dashi Ramen
Bacon, Lettuce, and Tomato Mazemen
SIDES AND SWEETS
Pork and Tomato Meshi
Roasted Pork Musubi
A Few Words about Sourcing Ingredients
About the Author and Contributors