THAI COCONUT CHICKEN SOUP
This fragrant blend of chicken, coconut milk, and exotic seasonings is my favorite Southeast Asian soup. For my vegetarian friends, I created the variation that follows, which captures much of the essence of the Thai original.
Straw mushrooms, imported canned or dried from China and Southeast Asia, have rounded, elongated heads and a delicate flavor.
Makes 6 servings.
1 tablespoon canola or other high-quality vegetable oil, if using fresh mushrooms
6 ounces fresh meaty mushrooms such as shiitake or portobello, sliced or cut into pieces of equal size, or 1 cup drained canned whole straw mushrooms, or a combination of fresh mushrooms and canned straw mushrooms
4 cups fresh coconut milk or high-quality commercial coconut milk
2 cups white stock made with chicken or canned reduced-sodium chicken broth
3 tablespoons minced fresh galanga or ginger
2 tablespoons minced fresh lemongrass, tender bulb portion only
2 teaspoons minced fresh Thai bird or other hot chile, or to taste
1 tablespoon slivered fresh or thawed frozen kaffir lime leaves
1/8 teaspoon black or white peppercorns
2 boned and skinned chicken breast halves
3 tablespoons fish sauce, preferably Thai or Vietnamese, or more if needed
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice, or more if needed
1-1/2 teaspoons palm sugar, or more if needed
2 tablespoons finely chopped green onion, including green tops
IF using fresh mushrooms, place a wok, saute pan, or skillet over high heat. When the pan is hot, add the oil and swirl to coat the pan. When the oil is hot but not yet smoking, add the mushrooms and stir-fry for 1 minute. Reduce the heat to medium and stir-fry until the mushrooms are tender, 3 to 5 minutes longer. Remove from the heat and set aside. If using canned straw mushrooms, set aside.
IN a soup pot or large saucepan, combine the coconut milk, stock or broth, galanga or ginger, lemongrass, chile, lime leaves, and peppercorns. Place over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to achieve a simmer and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes.
QUICKLY rinse the chicken under cold running water, pat dry with paper toweling, and slice into bite-sized pieces. Add the chicken to the simmering soup and continue to simmer just until the chicken turns opaque throughout, about 5 minutes; to check for doneness, cut into a piece with a small, sharp knife. Do not allow the soup to boil or the chicken will be overcooked and tough.
STIR the reserved mushrooms, fish sauce, lime juice, and sugar into the simmering soup and simmer until heated through, about 3 minutes longer. Remove from the heat, taste, and adjust with fish sauce, sugar, and/or lime juice to achieve a good balance of salty, sweet, and sour.
TO serve, ladle the hot soup into warmed bowls and sprinkle with the green onion.
VEGETABLE POT PIE WITH SPICY
CREAM CHEESE PASTRY
If you wish to turn this into a chicken or turkey pot pie, brown bite-sized pieces of boned chicken or turkey in the butter and oil and remove to a bowl before adding the vegetables. Return the fowl to the pot before adding the wine and stock and cook until the meat is tender. The vegetable ragout may also be served on its own without the crust.
Makes 6 servings.
WINTER VEGETABLE RAGOUT
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter
3 tablespoons canola or other high-quality vegetable oil
2 cups chopped leek, including pale green portion
1 cup thinly sliced fennel
2 teaspoons minced garlic
12 ounces carrots, peeled and cut into matchsticks (about 2 cups)
12 ounces rutabagas or turnips, peeled and cut into matchsticks (about 2 cups)
12 ounces parsnips, peeled and cut into matchsticks (about 2 cups)
12 ounces sweet potatoes (preferably not orange "yam" varieties), peeled and cut into matchsticks (about 2 cups)
1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, summer savory, or tarragon
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 cups vegetable stock or canned vegetable or reduced-sodium chicken broth
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/2 cup half-and-half
SPICY CREAM CHEESE PASTRY
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons ground cayenne or other dried hot chile
1 cup (2 sticks) very cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
6 ounces very cold cream cheese (not fat free), cut into small pieces
1 egg white, lightly beaten, for moistening
1 egg yolk lightly beaten with 1 tablespoon heavy (whipping) cream for brushing
TO make the Winter Vegetable Ragout, in a heavy stew pot such as a dutch oven, combine 3 tablespoons of the butter with the oil and place over medium-high heat. When the butter is melted, add the leek and fennel and cook, stirring frequently, until soft but not browned, about 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic, carrots, rutabagas or turnips, parsnips, sweet potatoes, and about half of the herbs and cook for about 3 minutes. Add the wine and stock or broth and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to achieve a simmer, cover, and simmer until the vegetables are tender, 15 to 20 minutes.
STRAIN the cooking liquid into a bowl and transfer the vegetables to a separate bowl. Melt the remaining 3 tablespoons butter in the stew pot over low heat. Add the flour and cook, whisking frequently, for 3 minutes. Gradually whisk in the cooking liquid and half-and-half. Cook, whisking frequently, until the liquid is thickened to sauce consistency, about 5 minutes.
COMBINE the sauce, vegetables, and the remaining herbs and spoon the mixture into a shallow 2-quart casserole or 6 shallow ramekins or other baking dishes that measure 5 to 6 inches in diameter. Cover and refrigerate until quite cold, for up to 2 days.
TO make the Spicy Cream Cheese Pastry, in a bowl, combine the flour, salt, and ground chile and stir together. Using a pastry blender or two knives, cut in the butter and cream cheese to form a soft dough. Alternatively, combine the dry ingredients in a food processor. Add the butter and cream cheese and process with short pulses until the dough just sticks together. Gather the dough into a ball, wrap in plastic wrap or waxed paper, and chill for at least 30 minutes or up to several hours.
ON a lightly floured board, roll out the dough about 1/4 inch thick. Using a ruler as a straight edge and a sharp knife or rolling pastry cutter, cut into long strips about 1/2 inch wide. Surround the edge of the dish with a strip of dough and pinch the edges to form a decorative pattern. Cut the remaining dough strips to a length that will fit across the top of the casserole. Crisscross the dough strips to form a lattice design over the filling. Using a pastry brush, moisten the ends of each dough strip with beaten egg white and press together with the strip surrounding the dish edges. Pinch off any excess dough and smooth the edges with your fingers. Brush the top of the pastry with the egg-cream mixture. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before baking.
ALTERNATIVELY, roll out the dough to fit the top of the baking dish, allowing for an overlap of about 1-1/2 inches. Place the dough over the top of the dish and press with your fingers to secure the edges to the baking dish. Cut slits in the pastry and brush all over with the egg-cream mixture. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before baking.
POSITION racks so that the pie will bake in the middle of an oven and preheat the oven to 450°F.