Synopses & Reviews
Second-hand fashion has a history as old as the production of clothing itself, but until recently it was given little consideration. Used clothes represent the largest numbers of existing garments but until recently they were not perceived as serious fashion items. However, this has changed dramatically with the rise of vintage web sites, value clothing chains, and the fashion media's perpetuation of the idea that secondhand clothes can be recycled into avant-garde "cool". This book not only shows how important used clothing has become but also what role it plays in culture and history. The Japanese, for example, traditionally salvage sections of kimonos, while in India garments are inexhaustibly recycled. This cross-cultural and historical perspective fills a major gap by offering fresh insights into the innovative use of secondhand dress and age-old traditions of recycling fashion.
About the Author
is the Nora E. Vaughan Fashion Costume Curator, in the Textile and Costume Section at the Royal Ontario Museum (ROM), Toronto. Hazel Clark
is Chair, Department of Critical Studies, Parsons School of Design.
Table of Contents
Introduction--Alexandra Palmer and Hazel Clark * Historical Practices * Introduction--Alexandra Palmer and Hazel Clark * The Florentine "Rigattieri": Second-Hand Clothing Dealers and the Circulation of Goods in the Renaissance--Carole Collier Frick * Shifting Currency: The Culture and Economy of the Second-Hand Trade in England, c. 1600-1850--Beverly Lemire * Cast Offs--Margot Riley * Second-Hand Silk Kimono Migrating Across Borders--Terry Satsuki Milhaupt * Parcels from America: Duty and Necessity, Pleasure and Imagining--Hilary O'Kelly * Trading Cultures * Introduction--Alexandra Palmer and Hazel Clark * Crafting Appearance: The Second-Hand Trade and Dress Practices in Zambia--Karen Tranberg Hansen * Creative Entrepreneurs: The Recycling of Second-Hand Indian Clothing--Lucy Norris * "Ukay-Ukay" Chic: (Re)Fashioning Second-Hand Clothing in the Philippine Cordillera--Lynne Milgram * Second-Hand Fashion, Culture and Identity: Hong Kong 1990s--Hazel Clark * Contemporary Re-fashioning * Introduction--Alexandra Palmer and Hazel Clark * Sixties Dress Only! The Consumption of the Past in a Youth Cultural Retro-Scene--Heike Jenns * Working the Edge: XULY Bet's Recycled Clothing--Victoria Rovine * Vintage Whores and Vintage Virgins: Second-Hand Fashion in the 21st Century--Alexandra Palmer