Synopses & Reviews
This quintessential guide to patternmaking offers comprehensive coverage, clear illustrations and easy-to-follow instructions, providing users with all the relevant information necessary to create design patterns with accuracy regardless of their complexity. Covers the three steps in the development of design patterns--dart manipulation, added fullness, and contouring--with a central theme that all designs are based on one, or more of these three major patternmaking and design principles. Includes a fashion sketch for each project with an analysis of the design, and focuses on pattern plot and manipulation for developing the patterns. Illustrates several methods for knock-offs, and dedicates new sections on fitting corrections for the basic pattern set and the four pant foundation; menswear; patternmaking for bias-cut garments; revised drafting instructions and standard measurement charts; how to modify the bodice to fit the different sizes of bust cups; constructed support for strapless designs, and more. Presents additional and more challenging design projects for the advanced reader. For dressmakers, home sewers, manufacturing companies, and professionals in fashion design and fashion merchandising.
Renowned for its comprehensive coverage, exceptional illustrations, andclear instructions, this hallmark book offers detailed yet easy-to-understand explanations of the essence of patternmaking. Hinging on a recurring theme that all designs are based on one or more of the three major patternmaking and design principles–dart manipulation, added fullness, and contouring–it provides all the relevant information necessary to create design patterns with accuracy regardless of their complexity. Sewing guides included for the pleated trouser (with pattern layout), belt/loops, pockets, and zipper; the jean pant with pockets, countour belt, and fly front; and the gusset. Updated jacket foundation draft includes fabric preparation, interfacing, chest piece, tape control, and shoulder pads. Pant drafts–Trouser draft including pocket, waistband, and loop; dungaree foundation draft; grunge pant draft; and three jean waistline variations including pocket and sewing instruction. Includes fitting corrections for the basic patterns. Unique section on patternmaking for bias-cut garments. For anyone developing their patternmaking skills.
Table of Contents
1. The Workroom.
2. The Model Form and Measurements.
3. Drafting the Basic Pattern Set.
4. Dart Manipulation. (Principle #1)
5. Designing with Darts (Tuck-Darts, Pleats, Flare and Gathers)
7. Added Fullness (Principle #2).
8. Yokes, Flanges, Pin-Tucks, and Pleat Tucks.
9. Contouring (Principle #3).
11. Built-up Necklines.
13. Skirts/Circles and Cascades.
15. Kimono, Raglan, Drop Shoulder, Exaggerated Armholes.
16. Buttons, Buttonholes, and Facings.
17. Plackets and Pockets.
18. Dresses without Wasteline Seams (Based on Torso Foundation).
19. Strapless Foundations and Interconstruction.
20. Patternmaking for Bias-Cut Dresses.
22. Jackets and Coats.
23. Capes and Hoods.
24. Knock-Off-Copying Ready-Made Designs.
26. Knits–Stretch and Shrinkage Factors.
27. Actionwear for Dance and Exercise.
29. Introduction to Childrenswear.
30. Drafting the Basic Pattern Set: Measurement Taking, Standard Measurement Charts.
31. Collars, Sleeves, and Skirts.
32. Dresses and Jumpers.
34. Pants and Jumpsuits.
35. Bodysuits, Leotards, Mailott, and Swimwear.