Synopses & Reviews
Tweed is a material that has a historical relationship with a very particular ideal of masculine identity; one coupled with connotations of tradition, and which denotes a certain class and social stature.
The story of tweed is tied to a series of social and political shifts that have molded its development. This book considers the historical and social factors that helped to shape, change and define the characteristics of the group of fabrics that we call tweed since its emergence in the 1820s. Progressive changes in gender relations as well as the impact of globalization are explored as major factors in tweed's evolution into what is now a truly modern and flexible fashion material.
This book is the first of its kind to recognize the resiliency of tweed and its importance in textiles and fashion today.
Synopsis
The story of tweed is tied to a series of social, economic and cultural shifts that have molded its development. This book considers the historical factors that helped to shape the design characteristics and social meanings of the group of fabrics that we call tweed, from their emergence in the 1820s to the present day. Including significant new research on tweeds, from Harris Tweed to the type used by Chanel, this book follows the history of these fabrics from the raw fiber to the finished garment in men's and women's fashion.
Exploring rural and urban contexts, this book reveals the important physical and conceptual relationships of tweed with landscape. Anderson shows that, contrary to their strong popular associations with tradition, tweeds emerged in the Romantic era as a response to the dramatic changes associated with industrialization and urbanization. Progressive changes in gender relations are also explored as a major factor in tweed's evolution, from associations with particular ideals of masculinity into what is now a truly adaptable fashion textile worn by both sexes. This is the first book of its kind to recognize the importance of tweed to fashion innovation today.
About the Author
Fiona Anderson is Senior Curator of Dress and Textiles at National Museums Scotland, UK. She previously worked as Lecturer in Design and Visual Culture at Edinburgh College of Art.
Table of Contents
Acknowledgements
List of Illustrations
Introduction
1. Tweed: Origins and Characteristics up to 1850
2. Tweed, Sport and Modern Masculinity: 1850-1914
3. Tweed, Femininity and Fashion: 1860-1914
4. Suits You: Men and Tweed: 1920s-1950s
5. Sportswear Chic: Tweed in Womenswear: 1920s to 1940s
6. Couture to Pop Fashion: 1950s to Late 1960s
7. Tradition and Postmodernity: Late 1960s to the Present
Conclusion
References
Bibliography
Index