The ones worth reading, for me, entertain AND enlighten; they please AND challenge; maybe they demand a bit more engagement on behalf of the reader, but the best ones (this is the important part) repay the reader for that work.
There was ??? I don't know, what would you call it? a poll? ??? about who the greatest twentieth century writer was, and the critics at Time magazine chose Joyce. Spare me. Okay, "Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man" ??? nice book. The rest of it? Self indulgent, intellectual crap. It's graduate student-ese, the stuff that people who are now writing for magazines remember from their graduate school courses.
Give me a break. Are you going to go on a long trip and take "Ulysses"? Are you going to go on a long trip and read "Finnegans Wake"? It's bullshit. No, you want to read a book, you read something by Dickens, you read something by George Eliot, you read something by Thomas Hardy, not some self-indulgent, intellectual onanism.