Charles James Beyond Fashion

Charles James, often considered to be Americaand#8217;s first couturier, was renowned in the 1940s and 1950s as a master at sculpting fabric for the female form and creating fashions that defined mid-century glamour. Although James had no formal training as a dressmaker, he created strikingly original and complex designs, including intricate ball gowns worn by members of high society in New York and Europe. This lavishly illustrated book offers a comprehensive study of Jamesand#8217; life and work, highlighting his virtuosity and inventiveness as well as his influence on subsequent fashion designers.

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Featuring exciting new photography of the spectacular evening dresses James produced between 1947 and 1955, this publication includes enlightening details of these intricate creations alongside vintage photographs and rarely seen archival items, such as patterns, muslins, dress forms, and sketches. A detailed and illustrated chronology of Jamesand#8217; life describes his magnetic personality, his unorthodox design processes, his colorful supportersand#151;such as Salvador Daland#237;, Elsa Schiaparelli, Christian Dior, and Cristobal Balenciagaand#151;and profiles of a number of his famous clients, such as Gypsy Rose Lee. With flair and style echoing that of its subject, Charles James brings to life one of the most fascinating and creative figures in American fashion.

"Charles James: Beyond Fashionand#8230; by The Costume Institute's Harold Koda and Jan Glier Reeder, demonstrates just how inspiring James was, and how much "beyond" clothes that influence goes.and#8221;and#8211;Womenand#8217;s Wear Daily

and#8220;A major retrospective of his work. A well-dressed coffee-table book to match. Yes, the inventor of American couture is back.and#8221;and#8211;Dallas Morning News

and#8220;This luscious volume took me into another worldand#8212;a world where gowns are architecture and gossamer and dreams and drop-dead sexy all at once.and#8221;and#8212;Library Journal

“[A] magisterial monograph.”-Laura Jacobs, Wall Street Journal Laura Jacobs

“The . . . catalog, 'Charles James: Beyond Fashion,' is as sumptuous as [James] work.”—Chicago Tribune Wall Street Journal Leonard Lopate - WNYC

and#8220;[A] magisterial monograph.and#8221;and#8211;Laura Jacobs, Wall Street Journal

and#8220;The . . . catalog, 'Charles James: Beyond Fashion,' is as sumptuous as [Jamesand#8217;] work.and#8221;and#8212;Chicago Tribune

"His work went beyond fashion and was a fine art."and#160;and#8212;a Charles James patron

"His work went beyond fashion and was a fine art." --a Charles James patron
Charles James, often considered to be America's first couturier, was renowned in the 1940s and 1950s as a master at sculpting fabric for the female form and creating fashions that defined mid-century glamour. Although James had no formal training as a dressmaker, he created strikingly original and complex designs, including intricate ball gowns worn by members of high society in New York and Europe. This lavishly illustrated book offers a comprehensive study of James' life and work, highlighting his virtuosity and inventiveness as well as his influence on subsequent fashion designers.
Featuring exciting new photography of the spectacular evening dresses James produced between 1947 and 1955, this publication includes enlightening details of these intricate creations alongside vintage photographs and rarely seen archival items, such as patterns, muslins, dress forms, and sketches. A detailed and illustrated chronology of James' life describes his magnetic personality, his unorthodox design processes, his colorful supporters--such as Salvador Dali, Elsa Schiaparelli, Christian Dior, and Cristobal Balenciaga--and profiles of a number of his famous clients, such as Gypsy Rose Lee. With flair and style echoing that of its subject, Charles James brings to life one of the most fascinating and creative figures in American fashion.

This catalogue offers the first comprehensive study of Jamesand#8217;s life and work, highlighting his virtuosity and inventiveness as well as the colorful cast of benefactors and clients who supported him.

Charles James (1906andndash;1978)andmdash;one of the most celebrated and sought-after couturiers of his day, and subject of a major exhibition in summer 2014 at The Metropolitan Museum of Artandmdash;won ecstatic praise for his highly innovative designs. Without formal training, he created some of the most ambitious and dramatic couture of the 20th century and became the designer of choice for powerful clients, including Marlene Dietrich, Gypsy Rose Lee, and socialites Millicent Rogers and Austine Hearst (wife of William Randolph Hearst Jr.). James was particularly famous for his nearly fanatical perfectionism and unpredictable temperament; his contracts with the ready-to-wear industry often ended in legal wrangling and contributed to both his fi nancial ruin and a reputation as a troubled genius. In this book, the first in a new series, Jamesandrsquo;s reputation is reexamined and his most stunning designs are analyzed in exacting detail, uncovering his geometric rigor and passion for materials. Featuring illustrations, new garment photography, and archival material, this is the perfect introduction to Jamesandrsquo;s stunning work.

Harold Koda is curator in charge and Jan Glier Reeder is consulting curator, Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection, both at The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art.