Zinfandel: A History of a Grape and Its Wine

The Zinfandel grapeand#151;currently producing big, rich, luscious styles of red wineand#151;has a large, loyal, even fanatical following in California and around the world. The grape, grown predominantly in California, has acquired an almost mythic statusand#151;in part because of the caliber of its wines and its remarkable versatility, and in part because of the mystery surrounding its origins. Charles Sullivan, a leading expert on the history of California wine, has at last written the definitive history of Zinfandel. Here he brings together his deep knowledge of wine with the results of his extensive research on the grape in the United States and Europe in a book that will entertain and enlighten wine aficionados and casual enthusiasts. In this lively book, Sullivan dispels the false legend that has obscured Zinfandel's history for almost a century, reveals the latest scientific findings about the grape's European roots, shares his thoughts on the quality of the wines now being produced, and looks to the future of this remarkable grape.

Sullivan reconstructs Zinfandel's journey through historyand#151;taking us from Austria to the East Coast of the U.S. in the 1820s, to Gold Rush California, and through the early days of the state's wine industry. He considers the ups and downs of the grape's popularity, including its most recent and, according to Sullivan, most brilliant "up." He also unravels the two great mysteries surrounding Zinfandel: the myth of Agoston Haraszthy's role in importing Zinfandel, and the heated controversy over the relationship between California Zinfandel and Italian Primitivo. Sullivan ends with his assessments of the 2001 and 2002 vintages, firmly setting the history of Zinfandel into the chronicles of grape history.

Includes bibliographical references (p. 209-212) and index.

"A lively, well-researched and entertaining account of California's favorite grape. Illuminating."and#151;Gerald Asher, author of The Pleasures of Wine

"The Zinfandel grape makes a fine wine. The story of its development also recapitulates and epitomizes the history of California from the Mission Era to the present. Enjoy, then, Charles Sullivan's masterful chronicle of the grape and the wine that best bespeak the sun, the soil, the hillside vineyards, the joy of life that is our beloved California!"and#151;Dr. Kevin Starr, State Librarian of California

"The mystery of Zinfandel has always had two sides: historical and scientific. As Charles Sullivan relates, the science has now been demystified by Dr. Carole Meredith of the University of California at Davis. The head sleuth on the historical side is Sullivan himself, who, in his long-awaited book, applies the painstaking rigor of a scholar in tracing the path of the grape."and#151;David Darlington, author of Zin: The History and Mystery of Zinfandel

"Finally, an authoritative and readable book that details history of the Zinfandel grape. Charles Sullivan lovingly blends California wine lore, primary source research and personal history into a thoughtful, compelling and thoroughly enjoyable chronicle of the Zinfandel-tainted California wine trade. This book is mandatory reading for those who love veracity, wine and a story well told."and#151;Joel Peterson, Winemaker and Founder Ravenswood Winery

Twenty-five years ago Leon Adams, the dean of California wine writers, named Charles L. Sullivan "the modern historian of wine in California." Among Sullivan's books are A Companion to California Wine: An Encyclopedia of Wine and Winemaking from the Mission Period to the Present (California, 1998) and Napa Wine: A History from Mission Days to the Present (1994).

List of Illustrations

Foreword

Preface

Acknowledgments

List of Abbreviations

1. How I Solved the Historical Mysteries Surrounding Zinfandeland#151;Sort Of

2. Sojourn in the East

3. Ho! For California!

4. Plant Your Vineyards! Begin Now!

5. Boom! 1872and#150;1890

6. The Haraszthy Myth

7. The Stealth Grape, 1891and#150;1918

8. Prohibition and the Fresh Grape Deal, 1919and#150;1933

9. The Two Faces of Zin, 1934and#150;1969

10. Of Pendulums and Roller Coasters, 1970and#150;1990

11. Fat Years, 1991and#150;2001

12. The Mystery of Origins Solvedand#151;Probably

13. Into the New Century

Appendix: Regional Summaries

Notes

Select Bibliography

Index