Reviewed by Warren Bass
Washington Post Book World
" "Heaven sends us good meat, but the Devil sends cooks," mused David Garrick, the 18th-century English actor. What's especially impressive about this observation is that Garrick died in 1779, which makes it pretty unlikely that he ever met Mario Batali. Nevertheless, spending time with the hard-driving, hard-drinking chef behind New York's splendid Babbo would surely have confirmed Garrick's theory. From the dining room, fine restaurants seem to be temples of cultivation and taste, but behind the scenes, they often look more like a soccer riot. In fact, Bill Buford's last book was..." Read the entire Washington Post Book World Review.