Synopses & Reviews
This beautifully illustrated book is the first to examine the relationship between innovation and aesthetics as expressed by American couturiers and fashion designers from the late 1910s to the present day. The book, which accompanies a major exhibition at The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, reveals that great design and great style were consistent elements in the work of Americanand#8217;s best fashion designers.
and#160;
Patricia Mears introduces many great forgotten figures, as well as many familiar names: work by lesser-known figures such as Jessie Franklin Turner, Ronaldus Shamask, and Charles Kleibecker is discussed alongside pieces by more celebrated creators, such as Halston and Charles James; work by designers of the past is juxtaposed with that of present-day designers such as Rick Owens, Yeolee Teng, and Maria Comejo. Jamesand#8217;s grand and structurally imposing gowns from the 1950s appear alongside contemporary Infantas by Ralph Rucci; the section on draping juxtaposes 1930s gowns by Elizabeth Hawes and Valentina with more contemporary garments by Jean Yu and Isabel Toledo; clothing cut into pure geometric shapes like circles, triangles, and rectangles is illustrated by World War Iand#150;era teagowns by Jessie Franklin Turner, Claire McCardelland#8217;s mid-century rompers garments, and modern sportswear by Yeohlee and Shamask.
and#160;
While the United States may be best known worldwide for its casual mass-marketed garments, Mears demonstrates that artistry, innovation, and flawless construction are the true marks of American fashion.
Review
"Much more than a straightforward 'look book,' this work features four well-integrated academic essays. Together they provide insights into fashion subcultures and successfully argue that Japan remains a significant player in the world of cutting-edge fashion design."and#8212;C. Donaldson, CHOICE
Review
and#8220;Well presented and sufficiently documented, this significant publicationand#8212;the first of its kindand#8212;will appeal to general readers, students, scholars, and others.and#8221;--
Library JournalReview
andlsquo;Contrary to Fashion mythology, this lavishly illustrated book demonstrates that their clothing was often so similar, it could be hard to discern who designed what.andrsquo;andmdash;
Daily Mail.Synopsis
A dazzling examination of the two designers behind the most iconic and glamorous fashions of the 1970sand#160;
Synopsis
A dazzling examination of the two designers behind the most iconic and glamorous fashions of the 1970s
This fascinating publication is the first to examine side by side the careers and work of two of the biggest names in 20th-century fashion, Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008) and Halston (1932-1990). Their designs--chic, sexy, and glamorous--came to exemplify the 1970s, a singular and dynamic era in fashion history. Inspired by menswear, foreign cultures, and wide-ranging historical periods, and employing new fabrics, YSL and Halston together crafted a new and distinctly modern way of dressing.
Moreover, although their output differed and they were based on different continents, the two designers shared many career parallels. A visual timeline of the designers' lives illustrates how their rises and falls, from the 1950s to their respective struggles in the 1980s, were surprisingly in sync. Engaging passages by Patricia Mears and Emma McClendon discuss the social, cultural, and economic factors that influenced both designers, and their subsequent impact on fashion--including the rise of the star designer as personality, the cult of celebrity, and the creation of the fashion conglomerate. The authors also address the importance of color, cutting-edge materials, innovative construction techniques, accessories, and perfume to both designers' aesthetics. Remarkable photographs of the designers and their garments round out this essential volume on two figures who made an indelible mark on fashion history.
Synopsis
This book, the first to examine the work of Yves Saint Laurent and Halston together, shows how their chic, modern designs became synonymous with the glamorous 1970s and uncovers striking parallels in their careers.
Synopsis
This fascinating publication is the first to examine side by side the careers and work of two of the biggest names in 20th-century fashion, Yves Saint Laurent (1936andndash;2008)and#160;and Halston (1932andndash;1990). Their designsandmdash;chic, sexy, and glamorousandmdash;came to exemplify the 1970s, a singular and dynamic era in fashion history. Inspired by menswear, foreign cultures, and wide-ranging historical periods, and employing new fabrics, YSL and Halston together crafted a new and distinctly modern way of dressing.
and#160;
Moreover, although their output differed and they were based on different continents, the two designers shared many career parallels. A visual timeline of the designersandrsquo; lives illustrates how their rises and falls, from the 1950s to their respective struggles in the 1980s, were surprisingly in sync. Engaging passages by Patricia Mears and Emma McClendon discuss the social, cultural, and economic factors that influenced both designers, and their subsequent impact on fashionandmdash;including the rise of the star designer as personality, the cult of celebrity, and the creation of the fashion conglomerate. The authors also address the importance of color, cutting-edge materials, innovative construction techniques, accessories, and perfume to both designersandrsquo; aesthetics. Remarkable photographs of the designers and their garments round out this essential volume on two figures who made an indelible mark on fashion history.
Synopsis
A history of "Ivy Style" in menswear, tracing the origins and diffusion of this enduring and classic fashion
Synopsis
Many of the most familiar sartorial images of the 20th century can be traced to the prestigious college campuses of America. The "Ivy League Look," or "Ivy Style," was once a cutting-edge look that for decades led the evolution of menswear. Far more than a classic way of dressing, Ivy Style spread beyond the rarified walls of Harvard, Yale, and Princeton to influence countless designers.
Focusing on menswear dating from the early 20th century through today, this elegant book traces the main periods of the look: the interwar years when classic items, such as tweed jackets and polo coats, were appropriated from the English man's wardrobe and redesigned by pioneering American firms such as Brooks Brothers and J. Press for young men at elite East Coast colleges; then from 1945 to the late 1960s, when the staples of Ivy Styleand#8212;oxford cloth shirts, khaki pants, and penny loafersand#8212;were worn by a new, diverse group that included working-class students and jazz musicians; and finally the current revival of the Ivy look that began in the early 1980s.
Ivy Style celebrates both high-profile proponents of the styleand#8212;including the Duke of Windsor, Steve McQueen, Paul Newman, and Miles Davisand#8212;who made the look their own, and designers such as Ralph Lauren, J. McLaughlin, Tommy Hilfiger, Michael Bastian, and Thom Browne, who have made it resonate with new generations of style enthusiasts.
Synopsis
Scholars have long acknowledged the significance of the Japanese and#8220;fashion revolutionand#8221; of the 1980s, when avant-garde designers Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, and Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garand#231;ons introduced a radically new conception of fashion. But what has happened in the years since then?
Lavishly illustrated, Japan Fashion Now will be the first book to explore how Japanese fashion has evolved in recent years. During this time, Japanese pop culture has swept the world, as young people everywhere read manga, watch anime, and play video games. Japan has had a profound impact on global culture, often via new media.
With essays by Valerie Steele (and#8220;Is Japan Still the Future?and#8221;), Patricia Mears (and#8220;Fashion Revolutionand#8221;), Hiroshi Narumi (and#8220;Japanese Street Styleand#8221;), and Yuniya Kawamura (and#8220;Japanese Fashion Subculturesand#8221;), Japan Fashion Now explores how the world of fashion has been transformed by contemporary Japanese visual culture.
Synopsis
One of the most exciting fashion designers in the United States, Cuban-born Isabel Toledo has been honored with a National Design Award from the Cooper- Hewitt Museum and a Couture Council Award for Artistry of Fashion, given by The Museum at FIT. Yet her name and work are recognized only by fashion insiders. This ravishing book brings Toledoand#8217;s creations to a wider audience, places them within the context of contemporary fashion, and examines her creative process.
and#160;
Interviewing Toledo, her husband (fashion illustrator Ruben Toledo), and other colleagues, clients, and critics, Valerie Steele gives an account of Toledoand#8217;s career and explains that while she has been heralded by leading fashion magazines and featured in stores in New York and Europe, she has not had the long-term financial backing to break out of the niche market. Patricia Mears investigates the artistic and cultural influences on Toledoand#8217;s work and analyzes her unusual methods of construction, noting that she designs in three dimensions in her mind and then begins working directly with fabric. Displaying garments Toledo has created since her first show in 1985, this book is a revelatory exploration of a fashion innovator in a mass-market industry.and#160;
About the Author
Valerie Steele is chief curator and director of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology.and#160; Patricia Mears is deputy director of The Museum at FIT. Yuniya Kawamura is associate professor of sociology at FIT. Hiroshi Narumi is associate professor at the Kyoto University of Art and Design.