Synopses & Reviews
The European Alps provide the ideal arena for mountaineers of all abilities. Impressive snow-covered peaks, heavy glaciation, constantly changing weather, superb huts in fabulous locations, evocative approach valleys and ease of accessibility (by road, rail, air, cableway and mountain railway) provide all the ingredients to encourage regular climbing. By targeting the peaks above 4000 meters an inspiring challenge has been created that will give years of enjoyment. It will take mountaineers to all the major mountain groups with climbs ranging from short, easy snow routes to long and serious expeditions. Most of the ascents involve an overnight stop in a hut, with a pre-dawn start and a summit gained early in the day when the majesty of the view is usually at its best.
This is not an extreme activity ¿ many of these ascents can be undertaken by any fit person (with suitable guidance) regardless of age. Those that accumulate experience, stamina and ability can work up to the bigger climbs. Yet virtually all alpine climbs are intrinsically adventurous with very real dangers that are only overcome by guile and ability. An eventful ascent will reward with satisfactions and memories that will last a lifetime.
The Alpine 4000m Peaks outlines the strategies and skills required, providing key information to enable climbers to match their ambitions to their abilities. Whether in a guided group or in partnership with a fellow climber, the thrills of winning through to the summit of a great peak are immense - all the more interesting as one is usually following in the footsteps of the pioneers who shaped this fine sport a century and a half ago.
Synopsis
The European Alps provide the ideal arena for mountaineers of all abilities. Impressive snow-covered peaks, heavy glaciation, and ease of accessibility provide the ingredients to support and encourage regular mountaineering. The
Alpine 4000m Peaks guides mountaineers to all the major mountain groups, with climbs ranging from short, easy snow routes to long and serious expeditions.
This book outlines the strategies and skills required to attempt the featured summits, providing key information to enable climbers to match their ambitions to their abilities. While some of the climbs included in this book are quite challenging, many of the ascents can be undertaken by any fit person with suitable guidance. This new edition also includes seven new summits based on 1994 UIAA committee guidelines.
With the help of The Alpine 4000m Peaks, climbers will find themselves following in the footsteps of the pioneers who shaped this fine sport a century and a half ago.
Synopsis
Kari Blodig, who started the 4000 meter peak quest with his book is 1829, had identified 81 summits. However there were inconsistencies in the Blodig list. In 1994, a UIAA committee arbitrated on the obvious anomalies (some great multi-peak massifs had only their highest points noted, while other groups had every significant summit accredited). By using adjoining col depth as a guideline, the UIAA process settled on a new tally of 88 peaks. These not only took in the obvious heights of big peaks like Liskamm, Breithorn, Grand Combin, and Grandes Jonasses, but also drew attention to a number of proud individual rock gendarmes on the ridges of the higher peaks. In this second edition of his guide, Richard Goedeke has incorporated all the UIAA promoted peaks. In addition, he has noted seven extra summits that merit accreditation based on the new guidelines, and discusses the status of those listed that barely meet the criteria but are noted for other reasons. As some of the new peaks are easily reached in the process of other expeditions, their inclusion is largely academic. Other newly acclaimed summits bring an extra dimension to the 4000m list. The Grand Gendarme of the Weisshom, the Aiguilles du Diables on Mont Blanc du Tacul and the western summits of the Grandes Jorasses introduce new expeditions of considerable challenge to the 4000m odyssey.
About the Author
Richard Goedeke is a climber and guide with more than 40 years of experience. During his long mountaineering career, he has achieved more than 100 first ascents in the Alps, Norway, and his most beloved Dolomites. He is the author of many books about mountaineering.