GREEN GAZPACHO Serves 4 to 6
My tomatoless gazpacho, made with cucumbers and tomatillos, is light and tart. Tomatillos, like tomatoes, are members of the Solanaceae family. They are not immature green tomatoes but a different fruit, prized by Mexican cooks for their citrus taste. Less seedy and juicy than tomatoes, tomatillos, also know as husk tomatoes, are available at gourmet markets.
4 cups basil leaves
Kosher salt
1/4 cup Champagne vinegar
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
3/4 pound tomatillos, husked and washed
6 scallions, white parts only
8 cups peeled chopped cucumbers (about 2 pounds)
1 teaspoon paprika
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste
3 tablespoons honey, or to taste
Blanch the basil in a pot of boiling salted water. Drain, then refresh the basil in ice water. Squeeze dry.
Combine the vinegar, oil, and 1 cup water in a blender or food processor. Add the basil, then add the tomatillos, scallions, and cucumbers in small batches, pureeing as you go. Add the paprika, cayenne, honey and blend well. Thin the soup if necessary with water, then adjust the seasonings with salt, cayenne, and honey. Chill and serve.
BABY LAMB CHOPS WITH ROASTED EGGPLANT SALAD
Serves 4 as an entree
2 Italian eggplants, peeled
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon umeboshi paste (a tart Japanese plum paste available at Asian markets)
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons Asian sesame oil
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, lightly toasted
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
2 scallions, thinly sliced on the bias
8 double baby lamb chops
Freshly ground black pepper
In baby lamb chops the "eye" of the meat is a consistent size and is relatively lean. One double chop is approximately the same size as a single mature chop. Larger chops, because they are generally cut thinner, take a little less time to cook. Whichever you prefer, let the meat rest after cooking. This allows the meat juices forced to the surface to settle back toward the center of the meat. New Zealand and Australia produce lovely lamb. Locally raised meat can be even more delicious, so look for it atbutcher shops, gourmet stores, and farmers' markets.
Making the salad.
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.
Cut the eggplants into quarters by splitting them in half crosswise and then lengthwise. Cut each quarter into thin lengths. Toss the eggplant with 1/4 cup of the olive oil, season with salt, and place on a baking sheet.
Roast the eggplant, turning once, until soft and golden, about 45 minutes.
Combine the sugar, umeboshi paste, and soy sauce in a large bowl and mix until the sugar dissolves. Add the sesame oil, sesame seeds, ginger, and scallions and mix well. Add the eggplant and mix gently; set aside while you cook the chops.
SautTing the lamb chops.
Heat two large skillets over medium-high heat. Season the lamb chops with salt and pepper. Add 2 tablespoons of the remaining oil to each skillet, then add the chops. Brown the lamb on all sides, turning every 2 to 3 minutes, about 7 minutes total cooking time for medium-rare. Transfer the chops to a platter and allow them to rest in a warm place for about 5 minutes.
Serve the lamb chops with the eggplant salad.
NAAN
Makes 8
1/2 teaspoon active dry yeast
1 tablespoon sugar
3 1/2 to 4 1/2 cups bread or other high-gluten flour
1 3/4 tablespoons kosher salt
1 cup plain yogurt
About 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
Naan is an East Asian flat bread. It is traditionally baked in a super-hot chimney-shaped oven, although I prefer to use a griddle or grill.
Combine the yeast, sugar, and 1 cup tepid water in a small bowl, stirring to mix. Set aside for 10 minutes.
Combine 3 1/2 cups of the flour and the salt in a large bowl. Make a well in the center and stir the yeast mixture into the flour a little at a time, then gradually mix in the yogurt. When the dough begins to form a ball, turn it out onto a floured board. Knead the dough, adding some or all of the remaining cup of flour as necessary, until it is smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. Place the dough in an oiled bowl, cover it with plastic wrap, and set aside in a warm place to rise until doubled, about 2 hours.
Punch the dough down. Divide it into 8 pieces (4 ounces each). Shape each one into a ball. Flatten and stretch each ball out until you have a round about 1/4 inch thick. Oil the dough on both sides.
Heat a large skillet over medium heat and add one or two of the dough rounds. Cook until crisp and lightly browned on one side, 2 to 3 minutes, then flip over and cook the remaining side. Serve immediately, brushed with butter or olive oil. Repeat to cook the remaining naan.