Synopses & Reviews
Extreme Surf illustrates the most extreme surfing behavior. It explores the candidates for the world’s gnarliest and fastest wave. It journeys up the Amazon to reveal the fearsome pororoca and travels to England for a surf ride that can last over an hour and where the major hazards are dead sheep, trees, and old refrigerators. It also includes the giant breaks of the surfing world—Jaws, Dungeons, Cyclops, Shiptern’s Bluff, and Cortes Bank—and reveals the most feared waves from Northern California to Tahiti.
Ever since Duke Kahanamoku helped revive the ancient art of “surfboard riding” in the early twentieth century, surfers have been pushing the boundaries of what is possible. Today, surfers will endure arctic temperatures in Iceland or suffer the crippling heat of Pakistan just to catch a new wave. They will dodge bandits, thieves, smugglers, security cordons, and evade civil wars to get to a good point break. They will journey to reefs a hundred miles out to sea to challenge sixty-foot waves, where one mistake can end in catastrophe, and medical intervention is a long, long way away. They will put up with toxic beaches, run the risk of shark attack or being grated across some of the hardest, sharpest, and shallowest reefs on the planet to do what they love best.
Featuring photographs by a dozen of the world’s best surf photographers, and comments and opinions from surfing experts such as Dr. A. Garrett Lisi, Laird Hamilton, and Kelly Slater, Extreme Surf shows the lengths that some people will go for the ultimate surfing experience.
Synopsis
Ever since Duke Kahanamoku helped revive the ancient art of "surfboard riding" in the early twentieth century, surfers have been pushing the boundaries of what is possible. Today surfers will endure arctic temperatures in Iceland or suffer the crippling heat of Pakistan just to catch a new wave. They will dodge bandits, thieves, smugglers, security cordons, and evade civil wars to get to a good point break. They will journey to reefs a hundred miles out to sea to challenge 60-foot waves, where one mistake can end in catastrophe and medical intervention is a long long way away. They will put up with toxic beaches, run the risk of shark attack or being grated across some of the hardest, sharpest, and shallowest reefs on the planet to do what they love best.
Extreme Surf illustrates the most extreme surfing behavior. It explores the candidates for the world's gnarliest wave and the fastest. It journeys up the Amazon to reveal the fearsome pororoca and travels to England for a surf ride that can last over an hour and where the major hazards are dead sheep, trees, and old refrigerators. It also includes the giant breaks of the surfing world: Jaws, Dungeons, Cyclops, Shiptern's Bluff and Cortes Bank, and reveals the most feared waves from Northern California to Tahiti.
Featuring photographs by a dozen of the world's best surf photographers, and comments and opinions from surfing experts such as Dr. A. Garrett Lisi, Laird Hamilton, and Kelly Slater, Extreme Surf shows the lengths that some people will go for the ultimate surfing experience.
Synopsis
Extreme Surf offers a look at the most extreme (and sometimes scariest) places on the planet to take a surfboard with a reasonable chance of surviving, complete with spectacular color photographs and engaging text that captures the true spirit of the sport.
About the Author
Ben Marcus was the Editor at
Surfer Magazine (the world's largest and most influential surf magazine) from 1989 through 1998 and spent 10 years there brainstorming, writing and editing 120+ issues of the magazine. His biggest accomplishment at
Surfer was writing the article that introduced the surf spot Mavericks to the world. Also developed the
Surfer Magazine Surf Video Awards in 1996, which is now in its 11th year. Along with scores of magazines and newspaper articles for
LA Weekly,
Men's Fitness,
Malibu Magazine,
Malibu Times, www.lat34.com, www.swell.com and many other magazines and newspapers, Ben has also written eight books including
Surfing USA,
A History of Surf Wax,
Surfbard: Art, Style, and Stoke, and
Surfing and the Meaning of Life.