Synopses & Reviews
Modern Mountaineering on Alpine Rock, Snow, and Ice If your experience as a backpacker or rock climber is drawing you higher; if the cold, remote alpine environment calls you nearer, this book is for you. The Mountaineering Handbook will teach you the skills that will take you to the top. Even if youre already an experienced mountaineer, youll find detailed descriptions of the newest and most effective techniques to refine and organize your methods and equipment. The Mountaineering Handbook isn't mired in outdated traditionalism; its new-school techniques are safer, more effective, and more fun for mountaineers at every level. With constant emphasis on light, fast, and efficient mountaineering, Craig Connally shows you how to:
- Move quickly up and down rock, snow, and ice with appropriate safety systems
- Manage mountain hazards, including rockfall, avalanche, lightning, and high-altitude illness
- Select the best equipment for your personal style and objectives
- Maintain sound nutrition and training according to the most up-to-date science
- Understand the human factors of mountaineering--the social and psychological forces that influence critical decisions
Connallys passion for mountaineering is evident in his writing--The Mountaineering Handbook is clever, insightful, and entertaining. He intends to move mountaineering into the twenty-first century, but hes also determined to turn the traditional how-to book on its ear by injecting personality, humor, and thoughtfulness into every page.
“Backpackers venture into the wilderness to see a little farther, but mountaineers describe their adventures as means of looking more closely into their own selves--to see a little deeper. Climbing mountains compels introspection because every detail--from the smallest to the most ominous--must be constantly attended to. Thats both exhausting and exhilarating. Exhilarating, because the criteria for success are absolute and absolutely objective--they are chosen by the mountain, not by the mountaineer, and every person is equal when judged by mountains. Success requires mountaineers to appraise their own physical and mental capacities and to know, or discover, the extent of their reserves of competence, commitment, and courage. Mountaineering does not build character so much as it reveals it."--from The Mountaineering Handbook
Craig Connally puts many years of mountaineering, ski mountaineering, and climbing rock and ice into his engaging writing. More importantly, he has applied his advanced degrees in science and his career as an engineering manager to sort out and explain what works and what doesnt in the mountains.
Synopsis
Modern Mountaineering on Alpine Rock, Snow, and Ice If your experience as a backpacker or rock climber is drawing you higher; if the cold, remote alpine environment calls you nearer, this book is for you. The Mountaineering Handbook will teach you the skills that will take you to the top. Even if youre already an experienced mountaineer, youll find detailed descriptions of the newest and most effective techniques to refine and organize your methods and equipment. The Mountaineering Handbook isn't mired in outdated traditionalism; its new-school techniques are safer, more effective, and more fun for mountaineers at every level. With constant emphasis on light, fast, and efficient mountaineering, Craig Connally shows you how to:
- Move quickly up and down rock, snow, and ice with appropriate safety systems
- Manage mountain hazards, including rockfall, avalanche, lightning, and high-altitude illness
- Select the best equipment for your personal style and objectives
- Maintain sound nutrition and training according to the most up-to-date science
- Understand the human factors of mountaineering--the social and psychological forces that influence critical decisions
Connallys passion for mountaineering is evident in his writing--The Mountaineering Handbook is clever, insightful, and entertaining. He intends to move mountaineering into the twenty-first century, but hes also determined to turn the traditional how-to book on its ear by injecting personality, humor, and thoughtfulness into every page.
Synopsis
A fully up to date instructional guide to climbing practices and equipment, presenting the best modern practices in a single, user-friendly source.
Synopsis
Modern Mountaineering on Alpine Rock, Snow, and IceIf your experience as a backpacker or rock climber is drawing you higher; if the cold, remote alpine environment calls you nearer, this book is for you. The Mountaineering Handbook will teach you the skills that will take you to the top. Even if youre already an experienced mountaineer, youll find detailed descriptions of the newest and most effective techniques to refine and organize your methods and equipment. The Mountaineering Handbook isn't mired in outdated traditionalism; its new-school techniques are safer, more effective, and more fun for mountaineers at every level. With constant emphasis on light, fast, and efficient mountaineering, Craig Connally shows you how to:
- Move quickly up and down rock, snow, and ice with appropriate safety systems
- Manage mountain hazards, including rockfall, avalanche, lightning, and high-altitude illness
- Select the best equipment for your personal style and objectives
- Maintain sound nutrition and training according to the most up-to-date science
- Understand the human factors of mountaineering--the social and psychological forces that influence critical decisions
Connallys passion for mountaineering is evident in his writing--The Mountaineering Handbook is clever, insightful, and entertaining. He intends to move mountaineering into the twenty-first century, but hes also determined to turn the traditional how-to book on its ear by injecting personality, humor, and thoughtfulness into every page.
About the Author
Craig Connally puts many years of mountaineering, ski mountaineering, and climbing rock and ice into his engaging writing. More importantly, he has applied his advanced degrees in science and his career as an engineering manager to sort out and explain what works and what doesnt in the mountains.
Table of Contents
Part 1: Mountaineering
1. Introduction
Who's It For?
2. Let's Go Climbing Together
Get Your Head Ready
Get Your Skills Ready
Fast and Light
Get Your Body Ready
Get Your Gear Ready
Get Started
Base Camp
The Alpine Start
The Approach
The Climb
Onto the Rock
Retreat
Be Resourceful
Be Tough
Have Fun
Part 2: The Approach
3. Moving Fast on the Trail
On the Approach
On the Climb
4. Wilderness Navigation
Navigation with Maps
Handy Navigation Features
Resorting to Your Compass
Altimeters
New-School Mapping
GPS and UTM
Estimating Travel Time
Lost
Another Way of Navigating
5. Mountain Hazards
Rockfall and Icefall
Rain
River Crossings
Lightning
Avalanche
Altitude
Heat and Cold
Sun and UV
6. Mountain Weather
What You Already Know
Clouding the Picture
When Weather Gets a Lift
Climatology
Predicting Mountain Weather Using Local Observations
Lifting the Fog
7. The Alpine Start
Why Start Early
Morning Begins at Sundown
Turning Off the Lights
The Dread Bivouac
Part 3: Rock
8. Climb Rating Systems
Climb with Class
The YDS
Ice with That?
Making the Grade
What Does All This Mean to Mountaineers?
9. Your Climbing Rope
The Basics
Single, Half, Twin
What Specs Are Unimportant?
What Specs Matter?
Recommendations for Mountaineering Ropes
Handling and Caring for Your Rope
10. Equipment for Rock Climbing
Climbing Harness
Belay/Rappel Brakes
Helmet
Carabiners
Runners and Slings
Cordelette
Protection Hardware
Nut Tool
Rap Ring
Knife
11. Climbing Forces
Physics 001
Static Forces
Dynamic Forces and Leader Falls
Real-World Influences on Fall Forces
Strength of Safety-System Components
Force Multiplication
12. Anchors
Tying In
Simple Anchors
Complex Anchors
What's a Mountaineer to Do?
13. Rappelling
Get Connected
Rappel Anchors
Getting Started
Joining Two Ropes for Rappelling
Final Preparations
Self-Belay While Rappelling
Cast Off
As You Alight
Last Is Best
Freeing a Stuck Rope
14. Climbing on Rock
Preliminaries
Belaying the Leader
Leading
Climbing
Placing Pro
Belaying the Second
Seconding
Changeover
Moving Fast on Rock
Part 4: Snow and Ice
15. Equipment for Snow and Ice Climbing
Mountaineering Ax
Crampons
Snowshoes
Trekking Poles
Pulkke
Goggles
Shovel
Protection Hardware and Personal Gear
16. Climbing Snow and Ice
Ascending Snow
Crampon Techniques
Mountaineering Ax Techniques
Descending
Roped Travel on Snow
Climbing with Protection
Moving Fast on Snow
Climbing Ice
Part 5: Base Camp Basics
17. Lightweight Mountaineering
Step Lightly
18. Equipment for Base Camp
Boots and Shoes
Backpacks
Clothing Systems
Shelter Systems
Sleeping Systems
Fuel and Stoves
Ten Essentials Rethought for Mountaineering
First-Aid Kit
Non-Essentials
Ten Essentials for Cooking
Water Purification
19. Performance Nutrition for Mountaineers
Calorie Consumption
Partial Repletion Is Best
Hydration
Electrolyte Repletion
Calories on the Go
Throwing Fat on the Fire
Protein--You Eat What You Are
Reality Nutrition and Altitude
A Dog's Breakfast
Nutrition on the Go
Get Started as Soon as You Stop
Repletion Starts with Water
Then Total Calories
Reality Dining--Again
Catching Up on Electrolytes
Nutritional Supplements
Sports Supplements
Vegetarian Mountaineers
20. Training for Mountaineering
Follow the Training Advice of German Existentialist
Philosophers
VO2max--The Measure of Aerobic Fitness
Percentage of VO2max--The Measure of Your Personal Aerobic Exercise Intensity
Heart Rate--The Measure for Most of Us
How Long Does Training Take?
At What Intensity Should I Train?
What Aerobic Exercises Work for Mountaineers?
Strength Training
Persistence
Mental Training
21. Wilderness First Aid
Wilderness First-Aid Instruction
First-Aid Kit
Shocking
Takeaway Example
Psychological First Aid
22. Protecting the Natural Environment
Leave No Trace
Access
Be Like Ed
Part 6: Advanced Techniques
23. Lightweight Ropes
Rappelling
Belaying the Leader on a Thin Rope
Belaying the Second
Releasing an Autoblock
24. Roped Parties
Simul-Climbing
Fixed Ropes
Rappelling by a Group
25. Self-Rescue
Think Ahead
Plan Your Escape
Ascending
Pulley Systems
Assisted Descending
Evacuation
26. Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue
How They Get That Way
Organizing the Rope Team
Off We Go
Safe Camping
When Luck Runs Out
Part 7: The Human Dimensions of Mountaineering
27. Human Factors and Not Technical Factors?
Risk Management and Decision Making
Controlling Fear
Leadership
Emergency Response
28. Why Do We Do It?
Travel Solo
Travel with Charlie
Appendix A. Additional Skills
Appendix B. Resources
Appendix C. Glossary
Index