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Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

William Finnegan [isbn]

This lush and glorious ode to surfing is also an absorbing coming-of-age story. William Finnegan's memoir isn't merely a book about a sport, but rather a vivid and incandescent tale of obsession, self-discovery, and transformation. With writing both fluid and perceptive, Finnegan transports his readers to another world.
Recommended by Rebekah A.

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